There were new variables, if not surprises, in the spring edition of Anthony Vaccarello’s supersexy formula: Giant silver cabochons were the chosen hardware of the season; skirts, which might more accurately be described as tailored loincloths, had pointed hemlines with cutout strips on the hips, and tie-dyed bleached denim and red leather broke up the mostly black lineup.

Vaccarello’s obsession with flashing flesh found a new outlet in lace romper/dress hybrids that brought a youthful softness to the collection’s taut sexuality, yet the sum of the parts was Versace-esque Eighties attitude.

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