Martial arts were the underlying inspiration for Cédric Charlier’s spring collection. He worked with theme-appropriate discipline for strong results. “A reflection of protection,” is how he put it backstage after the show. “I wanted to get into the idea of martial seduction.”

That meant silhouettes that appeared simple but weren’t reductive. The designer draped, mapped and tied together his clothes while playing with volume, transparency and chic combinations of navy and black. A great oversize coat was cinched and tied with a black-and-white belt; an elegant tailored vest was shown with samurai pants.

While Charlier’s bold stripes seemed out of step within the mostly pared-down lineup, his fine play with contrasting sequins in a red T-shirt and mint green skirt exuded an attitude of strength — the kind that could provide a cool sense of protection for evening.

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