“The primal instinct is to shed, reduce, retract,” said Damir Doma in his show notes. The designer followed his inclination with an appealing minimalist statement for spring, which, while surgical in its precise folds and drapes, felt anything but severe. That’s because Doma tempered the aesthetic with the right amount of womanly touches. He used a lovely circular eyelet detail — craterlike but not rough — on the crisp white looks that opened the show, among them a breezy dress, T-shirt and pencil skirt. The circles also appeared to striking effect when laser-cut into a languid, transparent pleated skirt layered over a pencil skirt.
Doma’s sensibility got tricky with orange trenchcoat belts in crisscrosses on the back of a dress, or as a way to fasten a side panel over a full skirt. Those few looks aside, the collection had a welcome polish and sophistication.
The new sunglasses — a collaboration with Mykita and inspired by American artist Sterling Ruby — added to the lineup’s allure. Doma suitably named the two styles Vivian and Rita, after Hollywood legends Leigh and Hayworth.