If indeed a garden inspired Elie Saab’s spring show, as his notes proclaimed in the most flowery language possible, it was a garden planted not far from the bedroom. For it was boudoir details that fertilized this collection: delicate lace, corsetlike seaming and lingerie bodices topping slinky gowns.
Dispensing almost completely with daywear, Saab got right down to business with after-five options, opening with a pair of rose-colored trousers topped with a roomy organza T-shirt embroidered with fluffy blooms here and there for modesty.
Almost every dress and gown that followed hugged the body, exalting the waist with a skinny little belt. The shapes were Saab standards, given extra sizzle with plunging or scooped necklines, insets of lace or crisscrossed back straps.
Yes, there were floral prints, positioned on the shoulders, waistline or hems of polite cocktail dresses and a Seventies-style halter number. But only the lingerie looks left an impression, layers of delicate lace frothing around the hips of a girlish slipdress, or banding a gown that revealed the legs with a tube of Chantilly.
The colors came in the usually Saab rhythm — four in this shade, five in that. Was the sweltering Tuileries tent intentional so the show notes could describe them as “hothouse hues”?