Giambattista Valli occupies a sweet spot with well-heeled, globe-trotting women. His spring lineup nicely played into that relationship with clothes that can easily work in the wardrobes of the Cocos, the Elettras, the Eugenies — all present in his front row Monday afternoon.

Valli revisited a Roman couture aesthetic, working it with a youthful vibe and strong textures, a play with transparency and some daring silhouettes.

He made a statement for voluminous detail from the start: a crisp white cropped shell top was shown with a micro-mini tulip skirt, two folds billowing across its front — an idea he repeated in several looks. The effect was sometimes cumbersome, except on the textured white minidress, where it added to the sweet whimsy.
The sheer pieces demonstrated equal design daring; some showed too much skin, although a chiffon dress, while clinical in shape, had the right romantic touch of floral embroidery.

Pretty is clearly the designer’s comfort zone — the point was particularly evident through his eye for florals, especially those that mixed appliqués with corresponding prints, like the subtle row of flowers on a top teamed with a patterned skirt.

Valli’s luxury-loving customer also enjoys a little opulence; this season’s came in the form of gold embroidery that looked like crops of wheat decorating a chic coat, dress and top-and-skirt combination.

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