As the value and visibility of pre-collections increase, more designers are using them as blueprints for the runway. This season Hussein Chalayan’s spring collection was yet another example.

He built on his very resort-y resort lineup, in which beachwear clichés became fashion concepts via dresses in seaside prints and some that looked like towels wrapped over bikinis. Amped-up versions of the same motifs opened the spring show: transformable wraps in navy-and-white cabana-striped terry, for example. The seaside ideas, including clear sun hats carried like parasols, were clever but not silly and ultimately set a tone of breezy calm. 

An assemblage of easy sportswear put an emphasis on flowing culottes and oversize tops, some with a neat braillelike texturing, while eveningwear included slim gowns with bustlines sculpted in graceful tucks and folds, bringing to mind sand dunes and sea foam.

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