Not so long ago, Isabel Marant was a local label, an insider’s designer known for her distinctly Parisian tomboy/bohemian mix, which has caught on like wildfire. She’s global, H&M’s current designer-collaborator du jour and a fetish target of the trend-hungry fashion consumer, to whom she seems to have become a bit of a slave. Her recent runway shows have felt like a recitation of hits — variations on cropped denim and ruffled dresses with ever-rising hemlines.

Not much changed for spring. The ruffles were pink and lingerielike, and the jeans came in frayed lattice patterns and pirate-rocker leathers. The best moments — a few fluttery floral prints and mannish jackets that were wrapped, belted and had nicely tailored shoulders — fell outside the overarching theme and harkened back to Marant’s earlier days.

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