Bill Gaytten’s most pressing subject for spring was technique. “It was about launching something new, so we did a lot of research,” he said backstage.
Looking beyond the fashion industry for fabrics, Gaytten settled on a vacuum-form Neoprene, which was originally developed for car interiors, employing it for a zippered coat and roomy, cropped jackets. He assured the material was “more flexible than it sounds.” To soften it further, he punctuated it with floral prints.
Origami folds were key. This ancient Japanese practice added form to billowing dresses and yielded artfully folded tops. A flurry of geometric laser cutouts — little circles, squares and triangles — also telegraphed Gaytten’s high-tech approach. The perforations appeared on sporty varsity jackets and cropped pants, giving them a youthful and modern flair.
More techno were dresses that looked as if they were made from bubble wrap, further underscoring the designer’s taste for the unusual.
Overall, the collection was girlie and upbeat, with its bold citrus palette, perky caps and heavy platform shoes festooned with oversize bows. Gaytten has definitively turned a page on the romantic narrative of the house founder.