Who was in the mood for a Sunday morning trip to the suburbs of Paris? Kenzo staged its spring show in Saint-Denis, the equivalent of Queens. There, La Cité du Cinéma provided a gigantic space for Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s ever-escalating production scale, which this time included a runway set with water-filled dishes that produced a splash syncopated to the soundtrack and a huge waterfall — all of it atmosphere for the collection’s ocean theme.
As native Californians, Lim and Leon “have always been impressed by the ocean, its power, its constant change,” read the show notes. They proved it with a plethora of aquatic references: graphic rain prints, cool tailored shirts cropped in the shape of waves and fish motifs — the novelty-print replacement for last season’s evil eyes, which could be spotted all over the audience.
Some of the looks had too much going on patternwise, but in general, the sporty silhouettes combined a grown-up polish with lots of athletic references, including print-coordinated sneakers.
The water works were not purely superficial: Program notes announced Kenzo’s partnership with the Blue Marine Foundation, which focuses on ocean pollution and overfishing. Sales of a capsule collection of Kenzo T-shirts and sweaters will benefit the foundation.