Pushing forward an aggressive expansion strategy targeting Russia, China and the U.S. (a New York boutique is set to open in mid-November), Serge Cajfinger, Paule Ka’s artistic director, proposed a youthful collection for spring.
Playful prints, invoking the colorful ceramic pottery of Vallauris in southern France, were splashed on a men’s shirt-inspired blouse and tapered pants, cropped just above the ankle. Most skirts came extra short and Sixties style. When longer, they were curve-hugging and worked in an appealing mélange of textures that included Neoprene, raffia, double crepe and a graphic honeycomb pattern.
As for the house’s signature bows, this season Cajfinger tied them to the sleeves of cropped shirts, conjuring little boleros that looked fun when teamed with another shirt, adding contrast to the plain structure.
The one evening look — a retro-looking kaftan in fuchsia Dutch satin with a bow on its sleeve — had a ballroom feel that seemed out of place in the rest of the modern lineup.