If the rumors are true and Marco Zanini is being tapped for Schiaparelli, he is leaving Rochas on a high note. Zanini chose to call his spring collection “The Glass Menagerie,” citing Tennessee Williams’ play more for the literal allusions to its title than any metaphorical plot references.

A brilliant fabric story, the clothes shone, nearly everything rendered with some kind of reflective treatment: Organza blouses were studded with thermo-sealed crystals; a long dress with a shirt collar came in silvery lace, and puffy dresses and separates with structured ruffles looked like they were sugar-glazed.

There was a potent sweetness, owed as much to the constant sparkle as the color spectrum, a girlishly vivid range from blush to citron green. But Zanini grounded the look in a weird whimsy, trading on his signature retro lady silhouettes, such as full, midlength skirts, shirtdresses and fancy toppers paired with slippers trimmed in a fan of ostrich feathers.

The dense materials and exaggerated proportions of the past were aerated, wonderfully light for all the depth of technique.

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