A fusion of the traditional and the technical, Chitose Abe’s spring collection mixed elements of modern athletics, classic couture volumes and bourgeois men’s wear staples into her usual splicing and dicing. Abe, too, caught the season’s sports fever, anchoring many of her hybrid silhouettes in performance gear — anoraks, track pants and shorts in colorful nylon and technical satin that flaunted playful sophistication and technical prowess. She cut them with Sixties couture shapes in mind, so that bubble tunics with knit hems had balloon backs and Windbreakers were done in trapeze ruffles.
The grand proportions were controlled, aired out with perforation and a juxtaposition of delicate layers. Riffs on men’s shirting came layered with sheer chiffon shirts and ruffled collars for a feminine contrast and cute takes on men’s tailoring — Prince of Wales and argyle — were softened with pink knitwear details.
Complicated moments arose — they go with Abe’s multiple-garments-in-one territory — yet she handled much of the collection with a light touch and energetic spirit, such as the breezy show openers of shiny woven tops with perforated skirts.