For Vionnet’s second runway show, Goga Ashkenazi, its owner and creative director, considerably softened the tone from fall’s treatise on Eighties severity. It was a good move, which she and her design team executed with just enough modernity to push the venerable house forward.


Ashkenazi opened with several strong riffs on the shirtdress, a key trend this season. Hers came in a lovely powdery blue; one version was layered with a draped tulle skirt that added a fluidity to the strict silhouette. The contrast of hard and soft was less effective when Ashkenazi teamed tailored jackets with flimsy tulle skirts, the latter so transparent it was difficult to see how they could work into real wardrobes.

For evening, gowns with constructed drapes on the bodice had a whiff of Madame Grès (wrong house!), but still, the look added a pretty languidity that felt of the moment.

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