The Middle Ages are a fertile fashion period for Vivienne Westwood, who for spring marched out a group of medieval pilgrims. The show was theatrical. Models’ faces and limbs were splattered with mud, and their rustic clothes were sometimes torn and wrinkled as if they had just hiked all day through deep woods.
On the whole, Westwood’s pilgrims were a dressy bunch, donning the designer’s signature jersey goddess dresses and lustrous satin gowns with undulating ruffles, which often took on a distressed aspect via asymmetric cuts and draping. With their plunging necklines and tight bodices, some of these looks were beautiful.
Then Westwood shifted gears, catapulting into modern times with a streetwear vibe. Cue a series of skimpy knit dresses and separates in ultrathin mesh, scraps of fabric draped from their shoulders like tiny capes. Several were embellished with bits of mirrored sunglass lenses and styled with athletic socks.
Westwood also mixed in a series of square-shouldered power blazers, which were more Wall Street than medieval. The cap she wore to take her bow seemed to sum up the zany show: It read “Chaos.”