For his spring collection, Coach’s Stuart Vevers said he referenced cultlike cinema — “Paris, Texas,” “Lost Highway,” “Blue Velvet” — aiming to bring something unexpected to the brand. He noted “this cool girl hanging out at a lost-highway gas station, real America.” To that end, he showed against a three-wall mural of a middle-of-nowhere highway.

“Unexpected” is a relative term. While Vevers’ pastel pilings of furs, cheetah prints, and minis and tops decorated with anime characters by artist Gary Baseman had a charmingly awkward thrift vibe that was fresh for Coach, the larger aura — posh contemporary, amped up for the runway — is likely indicative of much of what we’ll see on the runways this week. Enhanced contemporary is what much of NYFW is all about. What matters is that Vevers handled it well, giving his clothes a personality and his customers smart bag options including croc-embossed cross-bodies and studded mini satchels.

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