It was hard to decipher the point of view Richard Chai wanted to convey with his women’s Love collection. The styling — shirts and trenches falling off the shoulders to reveal ribbed tanks underneath and shirts tied around the waists — seemed to suggest a just-don’t-care, grunge attitude, but the fabrics fell somewhere between sporty and disco. There were metallics, electric colors and a lot of satin. The result was a total look that was less than the sum of its parts.

Chai’s men’s portion, expanded for spring, looked stronger than the women’s primarily because his signature athletic and streetwear references were well-executed and very on-trend. Bonus: Chai broke with tradition through his modern use of prints, bold stripes and paneling elements on shirts, shorts and jackets. And in a collaboration with Timberland, hiking boot-sneaker hybrids empowered the overall look.

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