Always with her finger in the air, Isabel Marant sees where trends are ablowin’ and gets there not a minute too late. For spring, she joined the artisanal movement marked by rough, raw textures and fringed finishes, which has gained traction this season — perhaps in protest of our culture’s current tech obsession.
“I wanted to do something tribal,” Marant said backstage. “I’m always inspired by tribes in Africa, but I didn’t want it to be too literal.”
As the patron saint of boho music-fest attire, Marant might be expected to take tribal in a handkerchief-hem-and-turquoise-jewelry direction. Instead, she threw a curveball, keeping it clean and refreshingly modern, for a look that dates back to Biblical times: spare tunics with fringed trims, a wrap vest with a rope belt and Greco-Roman draped dresses accessorized with a proliferation of Jesus sandals. Marant’s girl is a bit of a Jezebel, so all silhouettes were cut sinfully short.
The palette was graphic — mostly black and white with a few interludes of earthy red. There was a nice precision to the cut of miniskirts in neat raffia fringe and tiers of knife-pleated leather. Where there was decoration, it was spare, with Marant trimming a pair of cool low-rise pants with puka shells.