Julien David’s spring collection was as well executed as a Maria Kochetkova grand jété: San Francisco Ballet’s principal dancer served as inspiration for the spirited creations.

But David’s take on classical ballet was extremely sporty, given that dancers are de facto athletes. “People just fail to notice, because they are so graceful,” the designer remarked backstage.

David worked mostly with jersey, bonding the malleable fabric with polyurethane for more structure. The fabric was carved into sculptural skirts and bustier dresses with controlled swagger, much like the studied movements of a prima ballerina. On sweaters, David blended nylon-film knit (in front) with dense Oxford cotton (in the back) to great effect. The mixed-media theme continued in layered looks, which this season included a fanciful three-piece combo uniting a bonded jersey top, an overprinted lace shirt with neon gingham checks and another one decorated with tiny glass beads. Throughout, the collection telegraphed charm and refinement, yet in an easy, approachable way.

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