Brunello Cucinelli’s spring collection blurred the boundaries between preppy and sporty and masculine and feminine. Exhibit A: Soft pants, cropped at the ankle or relaxed and oversize, came in men’s wear fabrics with tiny sequins in lieu of pinstripes. Roomy knits with vertical maxi stripes, reminiscent of sports club jerseys, were enriched with crystal embroideries. Flashes of shiny and sparkly threads lit up the collection, which came in a mainly neutral palette, with the exception of touches of poppy red, straw yellow and azure. The study in contrasts continued with rich leathers, such as in a python skin bomber jacket, juxtaposed with technical and laminated fabrics. A standout was a yet super light red knitted mesh top that had a 3-D effect, thanks to floral embroideries that took 12 hours to be hand-sewn. The well-edited collection was cohesive and drove home the point: Brunello Cucinelli’s success rests on luxurious fabrics and Italian craft.

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