The future looks bright — literally — for Julie Paskal, the Ukrainian-born designer of this rising label. Taking as its starting point the simple lines and bright palette of modernist artist Sigmar Polke’s 1979 work “Ohne Titel” and rave culture — this time of the Goa trance variety, triggered by a recent yoga vacation in India — the injection of neons enhanced the collection’s pop factor, from contrast ruffle trims to allover fringing on fun party dresses and urban spins on the grass skirt.
The ingredients hadn’t changed, but the delivery felt fresh. Flitting between white, pastels — notably baby pink (the designer is expecting) — neons and black, Paskal cute-ified A-line dresses in asymmetric constructions and contrasting fabric weights with justly dosed girly flounces. An unexpected burst of pink fringing erupting from the skirt of a black cotton V-neck dress added to the sense of fun, with the fabric ruffles spilling over to the looks’ bandeaus and sandals.
The concise collection also offered more demure takes on the theme like pretty pastel A-line cotton dresses and summery off-the-shoulder tops with spaghetti straps. Sporty black silhouettes in 3-D laser-cut scales — a house signature — were the perfect balance of texture and lightness, with more organic mushroom textures also lending softness to the designer’s architectural lines.
Paskal has been steadily garnering kudos since launching in 2010. In 2014, she was shortlisted for the LVMH Prize and had her spring 2016 collection featured in the windows at Colette. Here, she kept the momentum going.