Chanwoo Lee’s affinity for hip-hop culture was apparent the moment the lights came up on his brand’s inaugural fashion show. Five men dressed in his designs stood in formation at the end of the runway, before launching into a break-dance performance. It made for an energetic and entertaining start to Tokyo’s spring fashion week.

Lee also said that his Acuod by Chanu collection was inspired by hip-hop culture, particularly the idea of sampling from various genres. He incorporated this concept by making use of unexpected fabrics and shapes, all of which were turned out as riffs on traditional shirts.

The all black-and-white collection featured unisex shirts with shiny silver zippers used as accents and as functional details that allowed for sleeves to be partially zipped off and tied behind the back, and for balloon shorts of rompers to be removed. Lee also made a point of using some fabrics not typically seen in shirts, such as a Coolmax material and organza.

The designer paired the shirts with slim, simple pants or leggings and accessorized with glass chain-link necklaces and masks covering the model’s mouths — a statement he said was made to blur gender lines and further emphasize the unisex styles. The show closed with a dramatic white pouf dress covered in dozens of shirt collars.

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