With no formal training in design, men’s wear designer Shinpei Yamagishi tends to conceptualize his collections the way a stylist would. He says he never wants to make the kind of “uncool” streetwear that is in style at the moment, preferring to create “cool” dressy looks.
For his first fashion show, he focused on what he called “dress jackets,” which are essentially his way of reimagining the suit jacket in a way that is both relaxed and has a certain elegance to it.
“I don’t know the proper way to make a jacket or how to cut the pattern,” he said. “So I made them by mixing together elements of jackets and shirts.”
This unusual way of working spawned a series of long, easy jackets in a lightweight suiting material. There were asymmetrical blazers with ties at the back, deconstructed double-breasted jackets, and a couple of more traditional shapes with oversize pockets. He paired these with loose pants and shorts in various lengths.
Yamagishi also showed several lounge looks, which contrasted with the relaxed yet businesslike vibe of the rest of the collection. He sent out checked and satin pajamas and a robe-style cardigan in deep eggplant. Most of his palette comprised black and jewel tones, but a series of wide striped satin tops and pants looked out of place and almost clown-like.