Melding suiting pieces with streetwear is a common theme for Tokyo designers, who oftentimes excel at striking just the right balance. Unfortunately, this wasn’t always the case for Emiko Sato and Takeshi Kitazawa’s latest offering for Dressedundressed.

The duo started their show strong, with men in smart, slim-fitting suits with cropped pants or dress shorts and women in sexy wrap skirts or wide pants with shirts in outsized proportions or exaggerated long sleeves. There were some interesting styling choices, such as layering an unbuttoned oversized shirt over another identical one in a more fitted size, and shirts or trenchcoats worn with just one removable sleeve attached. Sato and Kitazawa also incorporated lingerie influences, with sheer bodysuits worn with a calf-length knit skirt or under a beige trenchcoat and lace-trimmed slips layered over suiting pants. The palette consisted of white, black, navy and beige.

But there were a number of looks that didn’t seem to fit in with the rest of the collection. These included a nondescript white hooded sweatshirt under an Army green bomber jacket and light-washed slim jeans and a matching denim jacket. These pieces failed to show off Sato and Kitazawa’s talents, instead looking like they could have come from just about any fast-fashion or mall store. It would have been more satisfying to see the designers incorporate elements of these pieces into their suiting styles, rather than showing them as stand-alone looks that simply appeared out of place.

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