Since Yu Amatsu presented his spring ready-to-wear collection in September in order to give buyers a chance to place their orders earlier, he decided to use his show during Tokyo Fashion Week to give attendees a taste of his bridal collection for Hanae Mori Manuscrit.

The first few looks had Amatsu’s distinct stamp on them: a wide-leg jumpsuit with a giant bow adorning the back, and simple yet flowing gowns with draping and open details at the back. From there, the collection moved more into traditional bridal — and Hanae Mori — territory, although at times it looked almost old-fashioned.

Amatsu showed plenty of unsurprising wedding looks: strapless dresses with full skirts and fitted bodices, and a few lace sleeves thrown in for good measure. He emphasized the details, which included lace, floral embroidery and appliqués, ornate jacquard and sheer panels that floated delicately over models’ shoulders or hips.

While all of this was fine, the collection lacked pieces that showcased a modern interpretation of Hanae Mori’s aesthetics. Instead, it seemed to be divided between looks that represented Amatsu’s style and those that were inspired by the Hanae Mori catalog.

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