Punk culture, anarchy and chaos were key themes in Derek Jarman’s 1978 cult film “Jubilee,” which inspired Johan Ku’s spring collection.
For the second time, the designer worked with British photographer Andrew Penketh to create original textile prints, which also appeared as patterns on jacquard knits in black and white or red and black. Ku considers knitwear to be at the core of his brand and this season he showed plenty of options for both men and women. There were oversized sweaters bearing the image of a safety pin or anarchy symbol, and slinky dresses and sleeveless tops in an all-over pattern of crushed beer cans and other debris. Ku also sprinkled shiny gold studs across lightweight black sweaters for both sexes, and one standout look featured a pair of black knit pants that split into wide strips from midthigh down.
To complement his knitwear, Ku put men in checked, silky jacquard or anarchy print pants in a variety of silhouettes, from slim-fitting to loose and billowy. His women wore leggings, layered miniskirts or leg-baring shorts. The show closed with three different versions of deconstructed dresses: a sleeveless, belles trenchcoat, a shirtdress with an asymmetric handkerchief hem and a loose-fitting number with a zip-front, slitted long sleeves and outsized cargo pockets.
After a few seasons in which Ku focused primarily on his three-dimensional, multilayered original textiles, this collection felt new and fresh, and with its distinctively punk elements was definitely geared toward a slightly younger customer. It demonstrated that Ku clearly isn’t afraid to experiment with new looks and styles while maintaining the essence of his brand’s aesthetic. The punk accessories, created through a collaboration with Project Ornament, made for interesting and eye-catching finishing touches.