After gaining international feedback by holding exhibitions of his brand abroad, Mitsuru Nishizaki began to rethink the way that he represents a woman’s femininity.

“The Ujoh woman has maturity—sometimes she dresses feminine and sometimes she might wear more menswear-inspired things,” the designer said. “[My collection] is for people who dress well and look elegant but who still know how to have fun with clothes,”

So for spring, Nishizaki turned out a series of relaxed silhouettes aimed at the woman who wants to be stylish but still comfortable while traveling or running between meetings. There were lots of lightweight tops and dresses in draped satin or ribbed knit, often with asymmetric details that tastefully flashed patches of skin. Menswear influences were seen in wide-leg sailor pants and updated versions of suits and trenchcoats.

The designer also played with texture and contrasting materials, pairing floral-printed, flowy fabrics with more utilitarian, almost outdoorsy, textiles in beige and navy. Lace was used on crop tops and the back of a navy blouson jacket and there were various versions of crisp white or striped shirts with wide sashes tied at the chest or waist providing a point of interest.

The movement in the designs was testament to Nishizaki’s skill as a pattern cutter, which he honed under Yohji Yamamoto. Overall it was a solid collection from a designer who is clearly comfortable foregoing the drama for the more technical side of fashion.

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