Henry Holland doesn’t shy away from a print or two. For spring, the designer was in an experimental mood. He knew he wanted to do something with pirates, but didn’t want to go overboard with the theme, searching instead for an easy-breezy high-summer way out.

He eventually settled for a wavy geometric pattern that permeated the collection in myriad ways. It started as a print on a volley of deliciously lightweight cotton voile skirts and dresses — “something you just throw over a bikini on your way to the bar,” he offered, post-show. It continued in the shape of a hemline on a bouncy bustier number, which he styled worn boyishly over an athletic long-sleeve shirt, and lent itself as a pattern for a hand-crocheted dress and hooded jumper. Holland said it took 12 different hand-stitches to get the visuals right.

Meanwhile, his background in denim inspired a pair of bell bottoms, among other items, which he elaborately embroidered with sea-life motifs, feeding into the season’s dreamy, somewhat psychedelic aesthetic.

Throughout, the designer steered clear of girly clichés. His “beach babes” had tomboy written all over. Cue trashy sandals and white sport socks as this season’s top accessories. In the end, pirates only informed the kind of colorful straw hats you would expect on a drunk Jack Sparrow.

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