Joseph creative director Louise Trotter explored the intersection between the conformity of uniforms and the conversely relaxed attitude of the kind of clothes people pack to go on vacation, exploring military, chambermaid, Girl Scout and the tailored urban uniforms of the business classes.

Military and Scout references merged in epaulettes and field pockets on shirts and dresses, while she riffed chambermaid uniforms in the starched black looks with long white collars that opened the show, and in sweet transparent dresses trimmed with little ruffles worn over daffodil-print knickers.

Standouts included a luxe leather tobacco coat with field pockets, a midi-length red dress, a pale blue pantsuit with the roomy biker jacket worn backward, and a lovely smock dress with a plunging neckline in a pale coffee color.

But the collection occasionally veered toward the gimmicky, such as the lightweight coats in lilac or cream with their backs cut out and worn cape-like over one shoulder, or with the back of the collar tucked under the chin so that the front panels wafted behind, or in one artfully creased men’s style tailored look that skewed past oversized into just plain too-big.

The men’s offering was refined offering of classically tailored pieces in slightly relaxed cuts. An all-peach suit and another in cream with a shawl collar blazer were both well done.

Knitwear, traditionally a Joseph staple, was kept to a minimum. A red dress edged with white and an outsized loose-knit sweater among the highlights.

load comments