There was a self-assured, womanly air to Molly Goddard’s collection, underlined by her models’ vampy antics on the runway. Edie Campbell opened the show by sauntering out clutching a glass of Champagne and an unlit cigarette, while others struck expressive poses on platforms stationed along the catwalk.

The clothes felt more substantial than in past collections. Goddard’s naïf, child-like silhouettes were still there, but this time rendered in heavy cotton, too, alongside her signature tulle. One bulbous number had an Empire line while another was fashioned with a smocked, cinched-in waist and a floor-skimming skirt.

The designer also played with some toned-down shapes. There were draped dresses with gathered sleeveless in pinstripe cotton, and structured blazers in shiny, jewel-toned satin that were a foil to the flouncier elements. “I wanted to do something a bit more grown-up,” Goddard said after the show.

But still, her irreverence shone through, particularly in pieces such as babydoll and smock dresses that shimmered with tiny sliver mirrors, and heavy brogues and Wellington-like boots that grounded the femininity. The result was a joyful blend of fanciful looks with a fearless attitude.

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