Mother of Pearl showed its first see-now-buy-now collection today, with creative director Amy Powney channeling the recent experience of remodeling her new East London home into a strong collection via damask and brocade interiors fabrics, cushions evolved into playful bags and clutches, and quilted bedspreads were reimagined into crepe-de-chine outerwear.
She looked to the Romantic era’s writers, artists and composers, and the way they idolized the beauty of nature in reaction to the Industrial Revolution, and embraced the drama of her favorite artist, Caravaggio, in moody floral prints on heavy silk.
It was another confident offering that balanced the opulence of looks like the head-to-toe golden damask opening outfit with the hygge of all-knitted ensembles and the tongue-in-cheek Nineties accents that are characteristic of Powney’s vision. This season they came via injections of bubblegum-pink and pea-green inspired images by photographer Larry Sultan of his parents in Palm Beach in his 1992 book “Pictures From Home.”
The bordeaux floral quilted dressing gown coat and matching pants that closed the show was a standout, as were knitwear pieces like a soft pink cabled sweater with a frill along a deep yoke that came with matching ribbed pants and a knitted scarf that trailed behind, and wide-leg pants with high, gathered waists. A red-and-white striped silk shirt with matching trousers also was striking.
And those signature pearls (almost an in-joke now), came inserted into the gathers of sleeves, pinned through trousers like piercings and as text in “Pearly Queen” scarves.