Osman Yousefzada wanted to do something a bit more intimate for his spring show — in terms of staging and inspiration.
Guests were seated at tables at the Nordic restaurant Aquavit and served Champagne and oysters before the show, and he looked to the boudoir for inspiration, as some of his fans and muses, including Joséphine de la Baume and Valeria Napoleone, paraded in the show or acted as hostesses among the guests.
Delicate and sheer boudoir gowns trimmed with ostrich feathers were the big story here, channeling the kind of Old Hollywood glamour exemplified by Betty Grable and June Haver in “The Dolly Sisters.” One, in red with pale blue feathers, was tempered by a pair of black jeans and ankle boots; others came in teal with black feathers or in dusty pink with orange feathers. They’ll do well in the sales showroom.
As always, Yousefzada’s collection was anchored in tailoring, best seen in a deep green double-breasted pantsuit with shiny brass buttons, and other references were drawn from his interest in ethnicity and the costumes of ancient cultures, as seen in the stacked silver necklaces that were reminiscent of the Ndebele tribe’s neck-stretching jewelry. These came worn under long white shirts that knotted in front.
His signature Felix trousers, a cropped multitier style, appeared in frayed denim, in black and white sequins, or from extremely audible giant sea green paillettes. And feathers made more appearances as a white frothy capelet and as a white skirt that looked great simply worn with a white shirt.