Ease and optimism permeated the Ports 1961 lineup, with its breezy shapes and upbeat colors. The label’s creative director Nataša Čagalj said she wanted to play with ideas of “uniform, femininity and masculinity,” imagining a woman spending a summer journeying through Europe.

What stood out was Čagalj’s feminine, fluid take on traditionally masculine silhouettes. A bottle-green pantsuit was relaxed and softly tailored, while a canary yellow shirtdress had a swishing, pleated skirt. The designer also played with men’s handkerchief prints, blowing up and abstracting checks on shirts, skirts and shirtdresses in light cotton.

And while the message was a commercial one, Čagalj did weave in some quirky touches. Skirts and tops were fashioned in a fabric with a metallic blend, so that they rolled up at the hem or waist, for a relaxed, off-duty appeal. And the designer also took a very English-looking cricket sweater and reimagined it as a cardigan with cape-like sleeves.

The collection telegraphed a chic, laid-back modernity.

load comments