Sharon Wauchob’s spring collection was a sentimental one for the designer, who last year moved her atelier and show to London after appearing on the Paris schedule since 2003. Thinking of the different approaches to dressing in both cities, Wauchob showed a confident collection that balanced hard and soft silhouettes, textures and attitudes.
She had also turned up an old sketchbook from her years as a student at Central Saint Martins, where she graduated with honors in 1993 before becoming an in-house designer at Louis Vuitton between 1997 and 2001 and launching her own brand in 2003. The ideas rediscovered therein formed the basis for much of her latest collection.
There were grungy Nineties references seen in the way that a multitiered pleated cami dress was layered over a printed silk blouse, and in the discordant proportions of giant trenchcoats worn over roomy trousers.
Her years in Paris stoked a desire to explore couture treatments of fabrics, which resulted in the controlled use of feathers, especially nice in a slim midi-length white skirt worn under a sheer white long-sleeved shiftdress, and the demure rose pink dress with a draped waist spattered with feather embellishments.
Wauchob’s tough side was evident in great outerwear — especially a gray mac of exaggerated proportions that had sleeves slashed open to show the printed shirt below, and the pale blue rubberized satin overcoat worn with a long pale pink chiffon dress and scarlet trousers — and in her sharply tailored suiting and shirts, which had collars that transformed, on one side, into waterfall ruffles.