Donatella Versace said she was going for a Nineties New York vibe in her spring 2018 Versus collection, those years when the label was in its infancy and first under her control. She was working alongside her brother Gianni and catering to a younger, more urban crowd that was more interested in the raw city streets than in the glam and gloss of the catwalk.

She wanted this collection to mix fluidity and structure, and said she liked the idea of the looks being chopped up and pieced back together, which explains the exuberant mashup of studs, sparkles — and duchess satin or plaid patches.

Her youthful looks included short, swingy black dresses with red and white details — some had holster-shaped panels at the sides — and skirt suits done in double denim, or screaming lime. There were T-shirt dresses galore, some with sparkles and leather-studded panels, and others made from the house’s signature chain mail.

Youthful sophistication came in the form of plaid suits with Versace’s signature flared trousers and dark ones, too, their jackets adorned with fine red strings and a green zigzag pattern at the back. The jackets’ unfinished, devil-may-care look captured the collection’s hip, raw-edged feel.

load comments