After a fall collection rooted in sculptures, Daniele Calcaterra was all about movement for spring, with a collection inspired by Isadora Duncan.

Eschewing a literal take on the Grecian tunics favored by the dancer, he focused instead on dramatic volumes using rippling parachute fabrics. A white cape-backed shirt caught the wind like a sail, while a loose navy jumpsuit billowed in the back, with two banner-like strips of fabric fluttering from the hips.

Sensual touches like sheer shirts and oversized ruffles contrasted with androgynous tailoring, underlined by a smattering of men’s looks, as seen on the couple that opened the show in his ‘n’ hers black suits and coats. Understated yet confident, they proved that strong fashions don’t always require big gestures.

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