The house of Emilio Pucci has struggled to decide on its direction since it’s changed hands from the purring gypsy ways of Peter Dundas to the bright, quirky, more contemporary touch of Massimo Giorgetti, who left the company earlier this year. Management — and perhaps brand loyalists — doesn’t want to let go of those plucky, if pesky, archival prints. Believe it or not, the pool party concept that the design team came up for spring made a lot of sense for the Pucci world.
Staged in three vignettes, each set on an aqua blue carpet meant to look like a pool, the presentation tied together the house’s history of luxe retro travel and curlicue prints with a collection devoted to poolside glamour — morning, noon and night. Bathing beauties camped it up in laser-cut white bathrobes over a bikini top and wave-print mini or Pucci printed terry dresses, one wrapped like a beach towel into a strapless minidress with beaded embroidery. Another looked like a beach towel turned retro evening T-shirt dress with feathered trim. There was a cropped, neatly tailored utilitarian jumpsuit and a fabulous white caftan bordered in strips of print and puckered georgette. The models were accessorized to the max with printed shower slides, sunglasses, big or extra small bags, and towel turbans. It was campy in attitude yet refined in execution and material: They finally figured out a clever way to use those prints.