Gabriele Colangelo is a pro at manipulating fabrics to create new textures, and at mixing the tailored with the fluid. This season was no exception, although some of his trials worked better than others.

Colangelo twisted, dyed and pleated his way around this collection using Japanese techniques such as nui shibori. “I wanted a strong, arty feel and I wanted to work with masculine shapes and feminine fabrics — my woman is strict but gentle,” he said backstage.

Among the strongest looks were pleated knit dresses gathered at the front and back with little leather belts; a powder blue-and-white checked seersucker dress, and tie-dyed flower prints for slim, spare dresses and sparkly tops.

One dress had strips of crinkly tie-dyed flower fabric interspersed with sheer panels, giving it an arty, paper mache effect, while a long and flowing flower print sash added a Far Eastern flair to an olive trenchcoat.

It’s safe to say that “Victor/Victoria” styles such as the half pantsuit/half pleated dress won’t work for most women — unless they really can’t make up their minds at 7 on a weekday morning.

All those long, dangling utility straps won’t work either. While they may suit a fashion shoot, they won’t look as cool caught in a car door.

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