“A kimono ease spiked with the panache of Italian glamour” — that was how Krizia summed up its spring collection, which melded breezy tailoring with colorful embellishment inspired by the house’s signature animal motifs.
Antonio D’Anna, who designed the collection under the creative direction of Zhu Chongyun, president of Krizia, said the goal was to loosen the silhouette. “We wanted to bring a wearability and a more relaxed attitude to Krizia,” he explained backstage.
Crisp cotton separates came in color-blocked shades of baby blue, emerald green, fuchsia pink and hot orange. Oversize dresses in plissé organza featured graphic white accents, while a sober black trouser suit worked slim pants with a kimono-style jacket belted with a fine metal hoop.
The minimalist looks worked as a pleasant counterpoint to the more ornate elements of the collection, such as slouchy intarsia knits and fluid silk dresses and pants printed with creatures like panthers and zebras. Multicolored plastic sequins added a quirky touch.
D’Anna nodded to founder Mariuccia Mandelli’s fascination with Japan with a stunning floral jacquard fabric that required 25 yarns. He gave a classic Japanese palette of red, black and white a modern spin with a wrap skirt and ruched-sleeve blouse with geometric motifs — kimono ease and Italian glamour all in one.