Lorenzo Serafini’s Eighties obsession is going strong.
The Philosophy designer looked back to his favorite decade for spring 2018, but with a more grown-up stylemaker in mind. Gone was the baby-doll vibe of the teenage Brooke Shields. Instead, Serafini channeled the glamorous tomboy style of Tina Chow with a lineup heavy on crisp sportswear and Asian-inspired prints.
Chow was famous for her masculine-feminine look and her fondness for mixing high and low pieces. “This is the type of woman that attracts me the most — people with a strong sense of personal style,” Serafini explained backstage. “It’s quite structured, quite graphic, but what’s nice about it is that it’s not hard. Everything is soft.”
Items like a crinkled mint green jumpsuit or a navy raincoat with oversize curved sleeves channeled a strong sense of period — for those in the audience old enough to remember it. Less literal, but equally evocative, were the military jackets and sheer floral-patterned dresses cinched at the waist with lacquered obi belts.
The sportier elements came via oversize cotton dresses with nautical stripes and belted wader pants, with neckerchiefs adding a cute touch. Red or white lacquer-heeled shoes gave even the more casual looks a polished feel.
Serafini briefly revisited Lolita territory with a sequence of laminated plissé silk mini dresses that looked a little out of place. For the finale, the models emerged in breezy white cotton dresses paired with sneakers from the label’s new collaboration with Superga, to the soundtrack of Culture Club’s “The War Song” — truly a throwback to another era.