Gaia Trussardi’s spring collection, the first for which she combined men’s and women’s on the runway, was a nice display of how a leather goods house can translate its main material into clothes. She used a flight motif — airplanes, parachutes, Amelia Earhart — to frame chic bomber jackets, airy parachute dresses and utility tailoring, such as shirts, leather shorts, jumpsuits and smartly cut trenches. Some of the pieces were leather and suede but not all. Trussardi used it as an accent on skirts spliced with leather strips. At times sensual — dresses had cutout backs and shirts were shown open over bra tops — the lineup had an alluring relaxed polish.

 

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