Using Anna Pavlova as his spring muse gave Naeem Khan a wide latitude of decorative references to work with based on the famous ballerina’s travels — Asia, the Middle East, the U.S. — and, naturally, ballet. “How do you take influences from those parts of the world and infuse them into clothes that are light and beautiful?” Khan said backstage. Aside from the show’s glacial pacing and flower crowns and ornate nose and ear piercings that brought to mind Givenchy fall 2015, Khan did a good job summoning a mood of exotic opulence across a broad range of evening looks. A diaphanous white gown with a high-ruffled neckline, cold shoulders and black piping was soft, dreamy and restrained despite all the details. A cocktail dress crafted from graphic blue, black and yellow raffia with blunt cut fringe around the shoulders and hem packaged experimental fabric and color into a manageable silhouette. A long embroidered pink robe over a flirty lace corset and track pants elevated loungewear into a bold evening ensemble. And the show closer — a geometric lace wedding gown with thick tiers of white fringe and matching fringed veil — is for the bride who wants to be anything but cookie cutter.

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