Vaquera codesigners David Moses, Patric DiCaprio, Bryn Taubensee and Claire Sully closed their irreverent spring runway show with a remix of the soundtrack of “The O.C.,” a popular TV series of the early 2000s based on the life of a group of teenagers living in California’s Orange County. Being a design collective focused on promoting an independent point of view based on the exaltation of diversity, their choice sounded like an ironic criticism of the stereotypes shaped by the American mass media.
Actually, Vaquera’s show, which had a rebellious, energetic feel, seemed to explore that search for an identity defining the life of each individual. Playing with proportions — the designers mainly developed exaggerated or cropped and shrunken silhouettes — and awkward details, they brought to the stage an aesthetic that welcomes imperfection and uniqueness. Here, a classic men’s shirt became a huge tunic with a big, long tie. A mini floral dress featuring a giant bow mimicked the exaggeration of certain prom frocks, while a terrycloth bathrobe was reworked to become a gown with a long tail. This seemed designed for women who don’t need special occasions to dress like divas. Standing out from the crowd of New York Fashion Week, Vaquera’s collection, which featured more wearable pieces than past efforts, offered an encouraging example of what contemporary young designers can do to affirm their own vision of the world.