Talk about minimal — the Cyclas collection was shown in a salon at the ritzy Automobile Club de France, but the only decor consisted of potted ferns and sections of plastic-covered carpet that stuck to your shoes. It made for a rather drab backdrop to Keiko Onose’s pared-back spring collection, shown on models with barely-there makeup and scraped-back ponytails.

A former buyer for United Arrows and then with her own chain of stores, The Secret Closet, Onose has a sure sense of what women want. Puff-sleeved blouses with ruched sleeves, a saffron cotton summer dress and a satiny olive-colored trench coat all seemed like foolproof additions to most women’s warm-weather wardrobe.

The designer worked tonal looks in shades of baby blue, lipstick red and forest green, which she contrasted with color-clash ensembles, such as a buttery beige leather zip-up jacket with vivid purple pants. These clothes may sing on the rack, but for a catwalk presentation, a little panache wouldn’t go amiss.

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