The Koché woman has always been a tomboy, so it came as little surprise this season to find her on the soccer pitch.
Creative director Christelle Kocher has signed a multiseason agreement with the Paris Saint-Germain football club, which has been expanding into the lifestyle segment since it fell under Qatari ownership in 2011. Her coed show included soccer jerseys bedazzled with Swarovski crystals or spliced with Koché T-shirts.
They were paired with color-block suits and racing-stripe pants on the designer’s trademark cast of professional models and friends, who included accessories designer Yaz Bukey. But she also played against type by incorporating the garment into colorful patchwork slips trimmed with lace.
A striped rugby shirt was sliced vertically and fashioned into an hourglass dress, while polo shirts came with peplum frills at the waist. “This season I wanted to make the silhouettes more feminine,” Kocher said. “Nowadays you can be both feminine and strong.”
The presentation also marked an evolution. Instead of her usual standing-only guerrilla-style format, she opted for the serenity of a seated display at the Church of Saint-Merry.
It was a wise choice, enhancing the feeling that Kocher has crossed a threshold. Her name has been bandied about as a potential candidate to take the reins of a larger house, and with creations like her final look — a simple yet dramatic black satin dress — she signaled she is ready to take on the challenge.