Meiko Ban’s background as a choreographer and dancer came through in her first collection for Tokyo fashion week, as she imagined a company of grungy, angsty performers in a rehearsal. She put a gender-bending spin on her women’s collection, dressing men as well in ruffles, frills and tights. Turned out almost entirely in neutral hues, there was everything from demure eyelet dresses and rib knit leotards to bras and jeans that were so deconstructed only the seams were left, and even a top fashioned from a plastic shopping bag.

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