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A&F Finds 'Growing Up' Tough Now that Sex No Longer Sells

Abercrombie is aging its models to show it is no longer a "teen" brand; company reported a Q2 loss.

clock 23hVicki M. Young

Media

Barbie Becomes Paid Social Media Influencer

Through her Instagram account, Barbie “produces” sponsored content.

clock 18hMaghan McDowell

Fashion

Costume Institute's Next Subject Said to Be Rei Kawakubo

The exhibit next spring would be only the second the Met has devoted to a living designer.

clock 18hWWD Staff

GOODBYE MR. BLASS

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Overview

From This Issue

Fashion Features

GOODBYE MR. BLASS

NEW YORK — Mister Fashion Right.

That was the nickname WWD gave to Bill Blass at the height of his career and it captured him perfectly. A perennially elegant fixture in the sometimes inelegant garment business for more than five decades, Blass …

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

GOODBYE MR. BLASS

“After Jackie Kennedy, Americans came to adore the idea that a first lady had style,” Blass said in an article in WWD’s “One Hundred Years of Fashion,” published in 1998. “That gave us all a sense of pride. But no first lady has set styles for a new…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

SEEGAL SAID HEADED FOR J.LO

NEW YORK — With speculation churning feverishly about the new men in J.Lo’s life, there might in fact be a new woman — Denise Seegal.

The veteran of such high-profile companies as Donna Karan, Polo Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein and Liz Claiborne…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

ACTION IN ACCESSORIES, BUT BUYING CALM IN DALLAS

DALLAS — Sales representatives were disappointed by the sparse turnout for the fall and holiday market that ended here June 3, but there was still action in accessories and novelty sportswear and denim.

The May-June market at the International…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Beauty Features

A NEW TIME FOR CORUM’S WUNDERMAN

PARIS — When it comes to beating the odds, Severin Wunderman is a role model.

The much-respected chairman of Swiss luxury watch firm Corum built Gucci’s watch business and transformed the beleaguered Corum into a brand retailers rave about. Now,…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Beauty Features

AMERICAN EAGLE OUTFITTERS CHECKS ITS AURA

NEW YORK — American Eagle Outfitters is turning its focus to the girls. The private label clothing company is set to launch its first woman’s scent, Aura, this September. The new scent marks the company’s second foray into the fragrance category …

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Beauty Features

CANDY CORNER MAKES DEBUT

NEW YORK — Lotta Luv is developing a real sweet tooth.

Earlier this year the upstart beauty company signed a license with Hershey Foods to market cosmetics and bath and body items under the Bubble Yum bubble gum brand, which are slated to ship in…

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Beauty Features

COMBE’S SEXY NEW IMAGE

NEW YORK — For more than 50 years Combe Inc. has sported a button-down, business-suit image in order to successfully reach one of its primary consumers, the graying male. But a recent multiyear licensing agreement between closely held Combe and…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Beauty Features

DELL’ACQUA SCENT POISED FOR ROLLOUT

NEW YORK — “We are going to open the fragrance in countries where the fashion is more visible — or the other way around,” Giovanni Sgariboldi, president and chief executive officer of Euroitalia, said of the growth plan for Alessandro…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

CHANEL’S GAME OF CHANCE

NEW YORK — This fall, Chanel is taking a Chance on a new age group.

With its newest scent, Chance, the company is drawing a bead on the lucrative 21- to 29-year-old age group — which, like its teenage counterpart, contains a pool of consumers…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Beauty Features

SNIPPETS

HENRY DEPARTS LONGS: Cynthia Henry, category manager, cosmetics at Longs Drug Stores, is leaving the company after 17 years. She has been in her current position for seven years. Henry said she felt it was time to make a change and plans to take the…

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Beauty Features

SUNG FOLLOWS SHI WITH HEI

NEW YORK — Fourteen years after Sung Homme, Alfred Sung is doing his second men’s fragrance and his licensee, Riviera Concepts, is betting the launch will boost its hottest property.

The Mission: Hei, as the new scent is called, will make its…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Beauty Features

WEB OF DREAMS

PARIS — Canada’s Lise Watier is gearing up for the September global launch of the women’s fragrance called Capteur de Reves (Dream Catcher, in English), inspired by Native Canadians’ lucky charms.

The Mission: “Today, spirituality plays a big…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

DALLAS FASHION AWARD NOMINEES

DALLAS — Finalists have been announced for the International Apparel Mart’s 27th annual Dallas Fashion Awards competition. Retailers determine the winners by voting in August, and winners will be revealed Oct. 26 at the Mart’s annual gala.

THE…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

GALERIES’ LATEST DESIGNER FACELIFT

PARIS — Just two years after totally revamping its designer sportswear floor, department store Galeries Lafayette is already freshening up.

The Boulevard Haussmann behemoth will this summer add in-store shops from Junya Watanabe, Martine Sitbon…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

IN BRIEF

JONES INKS ESPRIT DEAL: Jones Apparel Group has signed a letter of intent for a licensing deal with the U.S. subsidiary of Esprit Holdings Ltd. for women’s handbags, luggage, small leather goods and footwear. Jones will manufacture and distribute…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

SCHOOL FOR DEAF HONORS LAURENS

NEW YORK — Ralph Lauren’s philanthropy reached back to his Bronx roots Wednesday, as he and his wife, Ricky, were honored at the Lexington School-Center for the Deaf.

In a tribute to the Laurens for their $2 million gift, which enabled the…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

STUDENT, FIFI WINNERS HONORED

NEW YORK — Last week’s FiFi winners received another round of applause during the annual Cartier Luncheon at the Waldorf-Astoria Wednesday. But the only winner to take the podium was Fashion Institute of Technology Cosmetics and Fragrance Marketing…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

WINNING WAYS

NEW YORK — Gen Art, the fairy godmother of the young designer set, held its fourth annual runway competition last week at the Hammerstein Ballroom for an audience that included the reigning Miss USA and Miss Teen USA. The event, called Styles, is…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

BILL’S BOOK: A FIRST LOOK

NEW YORK — Bill Blass certainly didn’t hold anything back in his new book, “Bare Blass,” which is expected to be published in October by HarperCollins.

Edited by Cathy Horyn, fashion critic for the New York Times, the book is 80 percent memoir…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Marketing and Promotion

CARTOON CHARACTERS GAIN GROUND IN BEAUTY

NEW YORK — SpongeBob SquarePants and the Pink Panther are joining Mr. Bubble and Bonne Bell on mass marketers shelves.

In the race to court consumers, more and more retailers are giving the nod to licensed properties, especially in the beauty…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

People

ALL BUILT UP

NEW YORK — The swimsuit models cavorting on the penthouse terrace of Atlas, the new 47-story apartment building at 66 West 38th Street, aren’t included in the lease. Neither is DJ Paul Sevigny, who is spinning at a party to woo brokers. But the…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

People

EYE SCOOP

KNOW WHEN TO FOLD `EM: Among the throngs of dealers at the Basel art fair, Jil Sander, fashion’s favorite ousted artiste, made her rounds, stopping to browse the Gagosian booth. But it was her appearance at another Basel spot — the Jil Sander…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

People

KALI-THENICS

Looking for a new workout? If Tae-bo and the now trendy capoeira don’t do it for you, how about the Filipino martial arts discipline Kali? A buff Matt Damon was schooled in the technique to play a master assassin in “The Bourne Identity,” which opens…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

People

WILD THINGS

Hilary Swank made her way between a large photo of an elephant and Cecil Beaton’s portrait of Marilyn Monroe hanging in the packed C&M Arts gallery.

“I can’t decide,” she said. “But I think I have to get the Marilyn because, you know, I’m an…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Fashion Scoops: Bag Ladies … Independents’ Day … Everlasting Love

BAG LADIES: What do Kylie Minogue and Juliette Binoche have in common with Cecilia Dean, Anna Wintour and Carine Roitfeld? Word has it those five women will soon be the recipients of a “pumpkin” handbag from Givenchy. The French house is banking on…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Financial

APPAREL PRICES SLIDE FURTHER DURING MAY

WASHINGTON — Domestically produced apparel prices continued their downward spiral in May, as deflationary pressure touched all facets of the supply chain.

The Labor Department reported Thursday in its Producer Price Index that wholesale prices…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Financial

CHEROKEE NET RISES 11.2 PERCENT

NEW YORK — Cherokee Inc. had a slightly better-than-expected first quarter as top-line growth fueled bottom-line gains.

For the three months ended May 4, the Van Nuys, Calif.-based licensing company reported net income increased 11.2 percent to…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Financial

CONVIVIO RAISES $2.3M FOR AIDS

MILAN — Believe it or not, the same designers who battle bitterly over a show calendar have managed to stick together for a decade to support Convivio, an AIDS fund-raiser held here every two years. More than 140 brands, including 50 fashion…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Financial

LOEHMANN’S NET VAULTS 65.2%

NEW YORK — Escalating net sales and vibrant comparable-store results allowed Loehmann’s Holdings Inc. to report earnings grew by almost two-thirds in the first quarter of fiscal 2002.

For the three months ended May 4, the Bronx, N.Y.-based…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Financial

MADAGASCAR CHARGES SINK NOVEL EARNINGS

NEW YORK — The costs and charges associated with its move out of Madagascar exacted a substantial toll on Novel Denim Holdings’ fourth-quarter finances, as the company expected, but recovery is anticipated to commence during the current…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

APPAREL SALES SUFFER SETBACK IN MAY

WASHINGTON — Sales at clothing and accessory stores dropped sharply by 2.8 percent in May, reversing a slight rebound in April, the Commerce Department reported Thursday.

Year-over-year, however, sales at clothing and accessory stores registered…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

BENETTON FILES EXTORTION LAWSUIT

MILAN — Benetton has brought suit against two men charged with allegedly trying to extort money from the giant retailer.

A Benetton spokesman confirmed a case is in progress but declined to comment further on details surrounding the extortion…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Beauty Features

MEDIC HOSTS COSMETICS MONTH

NEW YORK — For 10 years in a row, Cleveland-based Medic Drug has given cosmetics a special month of its own.

This year, the 28-store chain’s annual beauty promotion was held in May. And once again, the month-long event included a display contest…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Beauty Features

RETAILERS UPBEAT FOR NACDS SHOW

NEW YORK — Retailers making the trip to San Diego for the National Association of Chain Drug Stores Marketplace conference are optimistic as beauty sales have started to pick up over the past several weeks.

Last year, the cosmetics segment…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

FASHION EDITORS TELL TALES OF BILL

NEW YORK — Bill Blass’ rags-to-riches story and tremendous influence on American fashion provided plenty of fodder for editors and writers over the years, and they remembered him fondly on Thursday.

“We were certainly friends and I admired him,…

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

MEMO PAD

LEIVE EXPECTING: What’s going on with magazine editors? Is it the water or the warm winter? Whatever the reason, Cynthia Leive, editor in chief of Glamour, is the latest to join the ranks of expectant editors. Her first child is due in early November….

clock June 14, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

CATO SET FOR EXPANSION

NEW YORK — Cato Corp. is breaking out of its Southern small-town roots.

Emerging in the past year as one of the country’s fastest growing specialty chains, yet still virtually unknown outside the South and lower Midwest, Cato closed at $25, down…

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