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Fashion

Fashion's Game of Musical Chairs Quickens in Paris

The spring shows feature debuts at four major brands, prompting reflection on the pace of designer change.

clock 14hMiles Socha

Retail

Tough Times for Neiman's as Firm Battles 'Challenges'

The luxury chain has been battling the luxury malaise.

clock September 26, 2016David Moin

Retail

Focusing on Spring, Buyers Praise Milan's Creative Energy

The city has not lost its sizzle, once again led by Prada and Gucci.

clock 22hWWD Staff

A New Era at Warnaco: Kinder, More Creative To Woo Back Retailers

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Overview

From This Issue

The original Neiman Marcus store opened in downtown Dallas in 1907.

Fashion Features

The Life Of A Store

Stanley Marcus liked to joke that the founding of Neiman Marcus was based on bad business judgment.

Back in 1907, his father, aunt and uncle had the option of investing their $25,000 nest egg in the Missouri franchise for a new bottled drink…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

The Smith Family’s Stake

General Cinema, the Chestnut Hill, Mass.-based movie theater operator and beverage bottler led by Richard A. Smith and his family, purchased one million shares of a new convertible preferred stock for $300 million in cash in Carter Hawley Hale Stores…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Burt Tansky, chairman and ceo of the Neiman Marcus Group.

Fashion Features

The View Ahead

Trade down? Neiman Marcus never would, no matter how the economy and stock market perform. There doesn’t seem to be a limit to how high, offbeat or over-the-top Neiman’s merchandise will go, whether it’s a Russian sable coat for…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Joan Kaner, and the sophisticated looks she feels are right for the Neiman Marcus customer.

Fashion Features

Fashion Oracle

The fashion director of the luxury-filled Neiman Marcus chain would be expected to have a certain amount of flamboyance — and Joan Kaner has just the right touch of it. It comes from her bold streaks of white hair, and the chicly understated…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

The Neiman’s Seal Of Approval

Stanley Marcus created The Neiman Marcus Award for Distinguished Service in the Field of Fashion to recognize designers as well as local and international trendsetters, and to bring a higher profile to the store. The winners…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

The Sixties-era Sports Shop.

Fashion Features

Neiman Marcus, Then And Now

1907 Neiman Marcus opens on Sept. 10 at Elm and Murphy streets in Dallas, founded by Herbert Marcus Sr., his sister, Carrie Neiman Marcus, and her husband, A.L. Neiman.

1913 Fire destroys the original store and all…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Giorgio Armani

Fashion Features

A Singular Sensation

WWD talked to designers and executives about the impact Neiman Marcus has had on their businesses and the industry.

Giorgio Armani:

“I have always enjoyed a strong working relationship with Neiman’s. They were one of the first…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

The Neiman Marcus art collection was started in 1951 when Stanley Marcus commissioned artist Alexander Calder to create a mobile for the company’s first store.

Fashion Features

Wooing The Connoisseur

Someday, Neiman Marcus may rely on LCD screens as much as it does lush floral displays to set the mood for its stores.

To best showcase its mix of luxury goods, the 34-unit Neiman’s incorporates everything from orchids to video technology…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Julie Kronick

Fashion Features

The Museum Store

Eighteen months before Neiman Marcus was scheduled to open here at the Shops at Willow Bend, Neiman’s corporate art curator Julie Kronick was poring over architects’ plans for the three retail floors and, with a yellow highlighter, marking…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

The San Francisco Neiman Marcus overlooks Union Square.

Fashion Features

Thinking Outside The Box

The foundations for Stanley Marcus’ practice of hiring top-flight architects to design his stores were perhaps laid in 1934, when he hired Frank Lloyd Wright to design a home for himself and his wife, Billie.

Wright’s earliest…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

An interior view of NM’s Precious Jewels Salon in Beverly Hills.

Fashion Features

That’s Just Precious

To test a precious jewelry collection’s suitability for the Neiman Marcus customer, Stephen Magner just uses his imagination.

That is, the company’s vice president and divisional merchandise manager for precious jewelry conjures…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Thierry Mugler’s Angel is a Neiman’s bestseller.

Fashion Features

A Finely Tuned Focus

In the pecking order of beauty retailing, Neiman Marcus is purely couture.

Executives in Dallas have built a high-toned business that generates a significant share of the store’s sales with a roster of exclusive, high-priced limited…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

NM Direct houses its headquarters, main call center and warehouse in Irving, Tex.

Fashion Features

Direct Hit

Status brands and hot trends are the name of the game at Neiman Marcus’ catalogs and Web site, which only a few years ago were awash in basic clothing.

“Growth is coming from vendors who were not in the book before — like Prada and…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

His and hers mummy cases.

Fashion Features

The Ultimate Wish List

Ginger Reeder once presented Neiman Marcus Group chairman Burt Tansky with a brochure for flamboyantly airbrushed caskets and told him, straight-faced, that they would be featured as the famed “His and Hers’’ gifts in the 2000 Christmas…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Presents With Presence

Here, a rundown of Neiman’s most outrageous Christmas Book gifts.

1959 Black Angus steer, delivered live, $1,925, or cut into steaks with a silver serving cart, $2,230.

1963 White mink cowboy

chaps,…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

The Neiman Marcus Group acquired Bergdorf Goodman in 1987.

Fashion Features

Family Mattters

In the world of retail, it doesn’t get more upscale than Bergdorf Goodman. No wonder The Neiman Marcus Group saw fit to acquire Bergdorf’s in 1987. The luxury department store, still owned by NMG, is one of the premier purveyors of…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Neiman Marcus Beverly Hills is one of the jewels in the crown, notching some $150 million in sales per year.

Fashion Features

What’s Haute In Beverly Hills

When you work in the glove department at Neiman’s you are selling things that nobody buys anymore.”

So begins Steve Martin’s “Shop Girl,” a novella about a Neiman Marcus Beverly Hills sales associate who’s tucked away in an…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Star Power

Neiman Marcus doesn’t do much to lure celebrities. Perhaps that’s because it doesn’t have to.

John Travolta, Nancy Reagan and Gerald Ford are frequent visitors. But John Martens, the Beverly Hills store’s vice president…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

The store’s shoe department offerings include Manolo Blahnik, Stuart Weitzman and Ellen Tracy.

Fashion Features

More Than A Store

When Neiman Marcus landed in Atlanta in August 1972, competitors were few, but powerful.

Rich’s, the legendary hometown favorite, had a fiercely loyal following, and Saks Fifth Avenue, another newcomer that opened in 1971, boasted in…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Shoppers eye the goods at a Jay Strongwater event marking the launch of his line.

Fashion Features

The Main Event

Positioned a few blocks south of Bloomingdale’s and Marshall Field’s, and roughly across the street from Saks Fifth Avenue on Michigan Avenue, Chicago’s Neiman Marcus counts on its extensive fine apparel department, its large…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

A tableaux for the North Park store’s Diane Von Furstenberg party.

Fashion Features

Life Of The Party

When Neiman Marcus hosts its 95th anniversary gala in November in Dallas, it’s safe to say that the guests should expect the unexpected.

According to Ken Downing, the company’s vice president of corporate public relations and fashion…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Photographer Geof Kern cast stoic models to do mundane domestic duties for a 1995 Art of Fashion campaign.

Fashion Features

The Joy Of Luxe

Though some might feel that shopping at Neiman Marcus is a reward in itself, the company does go the extra mile to entice, educate and reward customers with a number of marketing vehicles.

These include the award-winning advertising campaign…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Stanley Marcus

Fashion Features

In His Own Words

“The taste of the general public isn’t as good as that of the sophisticated minority, but it isn’t as bad as most manufacturers and retailers believe it to be.

“The public will buy bad taste in merchandise if it has no choice, but…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Steam Heat

MILAN — This spring season was one of the most superheated in years, with sexy looks rampant on the runways of Paris and Milan. Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana always like their girls sultry, and their Dolce & Gabbana show this time was no…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Tom Wyatt

Fashion Features

A New Era at Warnaco: Kinder, More Creative To Woo Back Retailers

NEW YORK — The Warnaco Group is getting a major facelift.

The company, once seemingly destined to be broken up, is now working to regain its footing with a strong foundation of brands.

The new corporate-wide image is designed to be…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Burlington Industries Looks to Far East

NEW YORK — Peter Liu is trying to change the industry’s perception of bankrupt Burlington Industries Inc., along with its business model.

A casual glance at the business card of the executive who now heads the company’s…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Tommy Hilfiger and Joel Horowitz

Fashion Features

Tommy Alone At Top, Search On for New CEO

NEW YORK — Tommy is going it alone.

Three of Tommy Hilfiger’s partners — Silas Chou, Joel Horowitz, and Lawrence Stroll — will have left the $1.87 billion company by 2004.

The first to go was Stroll, who resigned…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

While names like Mossimo and Philippe Starck create excitement, Target is likely to get more bang out of mainstays like Woolrich, Eddie Bauer, and Sony, said industry observers.

Fashion Features

Target Stepping Up Food

NEW YORK — Target Stores has built its name on exclusive brands, and its plans for food continue the process.

Several new brands are headed for the Target chain, aimed at feeding the accelerating growth the nation’s second-largest…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Financial

Hear Henkel Bids for Wella

BERLIN — The German consumer products group Henkel KG has reportedly made a bid of up to $5.2 billion for Wella AG. All dollar figures are calculated from the Euro at current exchange rates.

According to press reports Monday, industry…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

In Brief

BARNEYS’ TRUNK SHOW: Barneys New York is hosting a special trunk show, but this time around, none of the goods are for sale. Goyard, the upscale French luggage and accessories firm, shipped several vintage trunks to the store, which are currently…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

MEMO

THE DEMOCRATIC APPROACH TO FASHION: So much for the age of the dictatorial celebrity editor. Glenda Bailey has decided to let the readers have their say. On the Harper’s Bazaar Web site, readers can now vote for which celebrities they would most…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Mickey Drexler Resigns Position on Gap’s Board

NEW YORK — The transition at Gap is complete.

Millard “Mickey” Drexler, Gap Inc.’s former president and chief executive officer, announced his departure from the San Francisco-based specialty retailer’s board Friday, capping…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Dayssi Olarte de Kanavos at Central Park Conservancy.

People

Baby Boomers

If there was ever any question that a Manhattan baby boom is under way, it was put to rest Thursday as young uptown mummies piled into Tod’s Madison Avenue store to shop for Easter-egg-colored diaper bags and baby shoes. Even the event’s…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

People

EYE SCOOP

Some girls have a taste for bankers, others for polo players or rock stars — but Samantha Boardman seems to prefer more literary types. The big news out of Condé Nast is that she’s dating Vanity Fair’s Graydon Carter, and…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Christian Witt-Dörring at the Neue Galerie, photographed by Todd Eberle.

People

Objectively Speaking

NEW YORK — Austria’s artistic wünderkind Dagobert Peche is having a coming-out party on Fifth Avenue.

Ivory tiaras, whimsical textiles, fanciful wallpaper and “Alice in Wonderland”-type tables are among the 400-plus pieces of…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

“Scaasi: Exuberant Fashion” opens today at the Museum at FIT.

Fashion Features

Scaasi’s Exuberant Exhibit

NEW YORK — “I originally wanted it at the Costume Institute, but they told me I had to be dead,” joked Arnold Scaasi, during a walk-through of his 47-year retrospective opening today at the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology on Seventh…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Holiday bestseller: David Rodriguez

Fashion Features

Eveningwear’s Early Christmas

NEW YORK — The holiday season has provided some early presents for Seventh Avenue’s dress houses.

Stores have planned for an upbeat eveningwear season, with some vendors reporting double-digit increases over last year….

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Material World: Planning for 2005

MIAMI BEACH — Preparations for the coming phaseout of quotas among the 144 World Trade Organization nations in 2005 was on the minds of many attendees at last week’s Material World trade show.

While Asian apparel and textile…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Panelists: Keep Your Eyes Open

MIAMI BEACH — The sluggish economy, heavy competition, margin pressure and shifting international sourcing scene are making life all the more challenging for apparel sourcing executives. With that in mind, Material World organized an Oct. 6…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Exhibitors at next week’s Los Angeles International Textile Show will have their eyes out for small designers.

Fashion Features

Angling for Small Fry in L.A.

LOS ANGELES — Small designers are like lottery tickets — one never knows which will hit big.

That’s the thinking from exhibitors preparing for the Los Angeles International Textile Show, which opens at the California Market…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Trend Evolution For Spring ’03

LOS ANGELES — If the spring test orders placed several weeks ago are any indication, merchandisers will come to the Los Angeles International Textile Show hungry for immediate orders of fabrics with stripes, linen blends, stretch ripstop nylon…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Exotic Silks’ gray, brown and black rayon and silk.

Fashion Features

Rich Life

NEW YORK — There’s nothing like being wrapped in plush velvet. And this season, exhibitors at the Los Angeles International Textiles Show are offering the luxurious and sophisticated fabric in a variety of forms, including paisley and…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Billon Freres’ gray and white nylon and Lycra spandex.

Fashion Features

Show-Offs

NEW YORK — Skin is in. Exhibitors will be showing a variety of revealing fabrics at this month’s Los Angeles International Textile Show. In addition to the continued popularity of lace — some of which is now flocked, appliquéd…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Financial

Producer Prices Rise in Sept.

WASHINGTON — Wholesale prices for domestically produced women’s apparel edged up slightly by 0.1 percent in September but continued to decline on an annual basis, the Labor Department reported Friday in its Producer Price…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

Financial

Retail Sales Post Monthly Decline

WASHINGTON — Retail sales were lackluster across the board last month, although sales showed some strength on a year-over-year basis, according to the Commerce Department’s report released Friday.

Retail sales at clothing and…

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

WWD Image

Fashion Features

Neiman Marcus At 95

From a single store in the then-cowtown of Dallas to 34 units nationwide, Neiman Marcus has spanned the history of American retailing and become one of the world’s leading purveyors of luxury.

clock October 15, 2002WWD Staff

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