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Business

Starbucks' Schultz Sees Sweeping Retail Consolidation

As U.S. retailing consolidates, Starbucks sees adding 12,000 stores worldwide through 2021.

clock 5hDavid Moin and Evan Clark

Business

Jewelry Brand Kendra Scott Puts Stake on the Block

The Austin, Tex.-based jeweler could be valued at $1 billion or higher in the Jefferies-run process.

clock 54mEvan Clark

Business

Hear J. Crew's Mickey Drexler Getting Succession-Minded

J. Crew Group is working to improve its business and moving to create a succession plan.

clock 9hDavid Moin

Fashion?s New Rules

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Overview

From This Issue

Ralph Lauren, Domenico De Sole, R. Brad Martin, Meg Whitman, Lew Frankfort, Peter Boneparth, Andy Bond, William K. Fung, and Vittorio Radice

Fashion Features

Fashion’s New Rules

NEW YORK — These are among the most trying times ever in retail and fashion. So how should companies adapt?

The annual WWD/DNR CEO Summit at the Ritz-Carlton, Battery Park addressed the challenges facing the industry, and the new…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Bartlett Said to Be Closing Shop

NEW YORK — John Bartlett’s yearlong effort to revive his signature business with a new backer appears to be at an end, as several sources said the designer was winding down operations of the men’s collection and its Uniform diffusion…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Richemont Net Tumbles 18.5%

LONDON — Solid sales in the U.S. coupled with a demand for jewelry helped Compagnie Financière Richemont AG post better-than-expected results for the first half ending Sept. 30.

The Swiss luxury goods group said in a statement…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Mixed Results for Apparel Prices

WASHINGTON — Wholesale prices for domestically produced women’s apparel showed some signs of strength in October, with an uptick of 0.7 percent, but continued to decline on an annual basis, the Labor Department reported Friday in its…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

A Model Display From Levi’s

LONDON — Levi’s is giving a new dimension to window dressing.

The company has positioned virtual models in the window of its Regent Street flagship here, who interact with —and sometimes tease — passersby.

The…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Fashion Scoops: More on Calvin … Diet Mania

MORE ON CALVIN: Whatever Bernard can do, so can François. At least, that’s the thinking behind the latest rumor to pop up regarding Calvin Klein Inc., which has it that French tycoon François Pinault came to Manhattan last week looking…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

In Brief

PRADA’S CAPSULE ROAD SHOW: While Prada chief Patrizio Bertelli has repeatedly said a Prada initial public offering was postponed indefinitely, he and his wife, Miuccia Prada, recently set out on a mini road show to present the company to…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Corrections

Lansing Menefee, who was named senior director of public relations at Anne Klein, was previously director of men’s publicity and Purple Label marketing at Polo Ralph Lauren. Her former title was incorrect in a story on page 10,…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Alain Dumenil Buys Into France Luxury Group

PARIS — The luxury sector may be navigating choppy waters, but not everyone is rushing for a life vest.

France Luxury Group, the fashion upstart founded last year by Mounir Moufarrige and entrepreneur François Barthes, has a new…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Oscar de la Renta and BG See Trunk Show Success

NEW YORK — Oscar de la Renta’s collections continue to strike a chord with the Bergdorf Goodman customer: The designer sold $1.75 million worth of merchandise in recent separate resort and spring-summer trunk shows at the specialty…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Bankruptcy Bill Gets Derailed

WASHINGTON — Retail officials have written off bankruptcy reform legislation passing Congress this year, after conservative House Republicans — usually friends to business — last week derailed the long sought-after bill in order to…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Hollywould’s striped canvas and leather bag with a leather clutch from Patch NYC by Ross & Carney.

Fashion Features

Wild Kingdom

NEW YORK — They’re back. Animal patterns have returned for spring, as accessories designers heed the call of the wild. Bold, whimsical zebra, tiger and pony patterns are turning up in such materials as leather, canvas and nylon, often…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Calif. Court Exonerates Stores on Sweatshops

LOS ANGELES — “Joint liability.”

The ill-defined phrase has been the California garment industry’s nemesis. But now, in a potentially precedent-setting decision that’s widely considered a victory for makers and merchants, a…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Todd, Vanessa, Victoria and Trevor Traina

People

Family Way

The party to herald the arrival of San Francisco’s Victoria Traina in New York, thrown by doting mother, Danielle Steel, and Victoria’s brother Trevor Traina, Wednesday night, wasn’t exactly the 19-year-old’s official debut….

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Parker Posey in ‘Personal Velocity.’

People

Personal Best

LOS ANGELES — Rebecca Miller’s film “Personal Velocity,” which opens this Friday, focuses on the lives of three New York women (played by Parker Posey, Kyra Sedgwick and Fairuza Balk) at crossroads. It’s not, however, a typical chick…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Sally Tadayon Albemarle’s candlesticks.

People

Vine Art

Viscount Linley makes fine furniture, Prince Charles sells organic edibles, and now, Sally Tadayon Albemarle — the fine arts sculptor otherwise known as the Countess of Albemarle — has turned her artistic vision to decorative objects….

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

People

EYE SCOOP

NO VACANCY: Miami Beach hasn’t been this hot since the early Nineties. Ian Schrager of the Delano and Shore Club will soon have to contend with some competition in South Beach. Sources say hotelier Andre Balazs is near closing a deal to buy…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Fashion’s New Rules

“We build the spaces; the brands deal with the products.”

— Vittorio Radice, Selfridges

“It’s about believing in what you’re doing. No matter what business you’re in, fashion or restaurants, you have to…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Ralph Lauren addresses the rapt crowd.

Fashion Features

Ralph’s Rule: Passion

I have spent 35 years in this business. When I started I was 6 feet 3 inches, about the size of Roger Farah. Now I’m 5 feet 8 inches, OK, 5 feet 7 1/2 inches,” quipped Ralph Lauren, the opening night keynote speaker at this year’s WWD/DNR…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Domenico De Sole shows the Gucci way.

Fashion Features

De Sole’s Virtues Of Discipline

If Domenico De Sole makes running Gucci Group look charmingly easy, that’s because he manages the $2 billion company with three principal tenants: discipline, common sense and leadership by example.

As chairman, president and chief…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Coach is now designing stores that are simpler, brighter and more open. Here the new store at 79 Fifth Avenue in New York.

Fashion Features

Frankfort’s Coach Approach

What’s Coach’s secret?

Arguably one of the hottest public companies in fashion today, Coach Inc., which last year generated $719 million in sales, not only has a strong balance sheet but is a bona fide Wall Street darling. Investors…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

William K. Fung

Fashion Features

LI & Fung: Getting It Done

The supply chain may start with an idea, but it’s the specialty of Hong Kong–based Li & Fung Ltd. to take that idea from raw concept to store floor.

Group managing director William K. Fung said that issues of efficiency, quotas and…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

WWD Image

Fashion Features

Victoria’s Secret: Panties and Protesters

NEW YORK — Breaking into Fort Knox might have been easier than gaining entry into the Victoria’s Secret Christmas Dreams & Fantasies 2002 fashion show Thursday at the New York State Armory on Lexington Avenue.

But the booty was…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

WWD Image

Fashion Features

Boucheron’s New Store Design Bows

LONDON — Boucheron, the upscale jewelry company, has unveiled two stores with its new retail design concept in London and San Francisco, and plans to open units in at least 10 more markets in the next three years.

“We have a global…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Soft leather handbags from Monsac.

Fashion Features

Spring Items Take Colorful Turn

NEW YORK — When designers such as Marc Jacobs sent out looks in Easter egg colors during the spring runway presentations, accessories makers — scrambling for a key silhouette, fabric or color to lift sales — sat up and took…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

R. Brad Martin at the NYSE dinner.

Fashion Features

Saks: From Luxe To Hometown

He’s a man who acknowledges he never intended to be a retail ceo and thinks buyers should be running their business as if they were merchandising fresh produce.

That man is R. Brad Martin, the Tennessee legislator turned retailer who now…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Futurist Edie Weiner.

Fashion Features

Rethinking The Future

The future is filled with nerds.

That foretelling of demography, along with insights into the diminutive world of nanotechnologies and a sense of luxury unrelated to price, were part of futurist Edie Weiner’s reading of the tea leaves for…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

MTV’s Tom Freston.

Fashion Features

The MTV Beat

The intimate relationship between music and fashion in today’s popular culture is no secret. But what perhaps isn’t widely known is that the head of one of the nexuses of that relationship — MTV Networks — actually started in…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

The futuristic Birmingham store.

Fashion Features

Radice The Radical

For Vittorio Radice, the department store is a religious experience, one that is all about a special place filled with special brands. The chief executive of London-based Selfridges mesmerized the crowd at the CEO Summit with his take on the viability…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Peter Boneparth

Fashion Features

For Jones, Size Matters

There’s a paradox that exists in the fashion industry that the bigger you are, the perception is the slower you are. But from Peter Boneparth’s vantage at the helm of the $4.5 billion Jones Apparel Group, “if you do this right, then the…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Jack D. Horst

Fashion Features

Flexible Supply Chain

The Supply Chain,” a phrase frequently used in the apparel business, is a misnomer, said Jack D. Horst, a principal at Kurt Salmon Associates. “What’s missing are the words ‘demand’ and ‘consumer.’”

Horst said the…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Meg Whitman

Fashion Features

Ebay’s Apparel Net

EBay wants a big piece of the apparel pie. It’s already succeeding in the arena, selling a pair of Nike shoes every two minutes, a Coach handbag every four minutes and a pair of Levi’s jeans every 1 1/2 minutes. “There are 34,000 keyword…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Stefani Greenfield, Debra Pearlstein Greenberg and Janet Brown.

Fashion Features

Claiming Their Niche

Independent specialty store owners are faced with a unique set of challenges in their quest to survive successfully against larger competitors. But by keeping their fingers on the pulse of their customers, small merchants can carve out a…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

William Ivey Long

Fashion Features

Broadway Bound

Hairspray,” one of the hottest tickets in town, was certainly one of the week’s highlights for the 16 guests whose spouses were downtown attending the summit. But the highlight followed the show when costume designer William Ivey Long treated…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Peter Arnold, Carlos Miele, Elizabeth Pearce and Zac Posen.

Fashion Features

Rules to Live By

While much of discourse at the summit was about the serious business issues at hand, there was also a more mischievous spirit unique to the fashion industry. This is a creative business, after all, and many of the designers who dropped by had their…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Kip Tindell

Fashion Features

Containing Top Staff

Talent is the whole ball game.”

That was the simple premise of Kip Tindell, president and chief executive officer of The Container Store. The $300 million retailer of coat hangers, plastic baskets and scores of other organizing products for the…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Kirk Palmer

Fashion Features

Five Executive Truths

It takes a lot more than money to recruit and retain high-caliber executives. They’re like hot items — tough to find and subject to rapid turnover.

“If you have the financial resources, and you truly believe that people are the…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Arnold J. Karr, Christine Augustine, Phil Bleser, Arnold Cohen and Jeffrey Hornstein.

Fashion Features

Working From A Plan

A strategy. That’s what apparel firms need today to keep up with an increasingly competitive and unforgiving marketplace — even if all they want to do is get out of the business.

In examples ranging from small, privately held…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Marshal Cohen

Fashion Features

Different Product Is Key

Marshal Cohen, co-president of research firm NPDFashionworld, is the man with the numbers much of the industry relies on for insight into consumer attitudes and behaviors — and those numbers don’t generally bode well for department stores….

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Andy Bond's $70 outfit.

Fashion Features

George’s Fashion Democracy

In a room full of fashion industry executives, it’s hard to make a hit with a $70 outfit.

But that’s exactly what Andy Bond did, standing aside from the podium to point out that his shoes, socks, underwear, shirt, tie, jacket and…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Bill Ghitis

Fashion Features

DuPont’s Innovation Buzz

The apparel industry has been one of the most successful at cutting costs in the past decade, and also at passing on the benefits. U.S. apparel prices are slightly lower than a decade ago, compared with inflation of more than 100 percent, noted Bill…

clock November 18, 2002WWD Staff

Essentialist

Today's Must Read

Raf Simons

Fashion

Calvin Klein’s Amy Mellen, Senior VP of Home, Is Leaving

clock 6hLisa Lockwood

Social Studies