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Coming Around Again: Designers? Second Acts Adopt New Strategies

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Overview

Signs of economic hope and interest in new labels have spurred several designers who?ve recently left the scene to take another crack at Seventh Avenue.

From This Issue

Fashion Features

Blanket Appeal

NEW YORK — In one of the dramatic high points of the week, Donna Karan delivered a glamorous, faintly decadent collection for fall that, nonetheless, still held true to the designer’s main mission: making real clothes for real women….

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Designer and Luxury

Coming Around Again: Designers’Second Acts Adopt New Strategies

Signs of economic hope and interest in new labels have spurred several designers who’ve recently left the scene to take another crack at Seventh Avenue.

clock February 18, 2004Eric Wilson

Fashion Features

Wilson-Gray Exits Saks

In another top management switch, Saks Fifth Avenue said Sheri Wilson-Gray, executive vice president and chief marketing officer, has resigned.

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Armani Headed to Shanghai To Introduce New Flagships

Giorgio Armani will visit Shanghai in April for the opening of flagships for his Giorgio Armani and Emporio Armani brands.

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

N.Y. Collections Impress Buyers, Newbies Shine

NEW YORK — With some exceptions, such as Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs, it was the younger and smaller designers who stole the shows last week.

While buyers praised the collections of these fashion…

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

In Brief: Downgrade for St. John … Cracking Down on Child Labor … One Price’s No-Go …

DOWNGRADE FOR ST. JOHN: Standard & Poor’s Ratings Services downgraded the outlook for St. John Knits International Inc. on Tuesday to negative from stable. The ratings firm said weak operating performance in fiscal 2003 resulted in…

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

People

Suzy

Sir Paul McCartney sets the record straight; Hugh Grant toboggans; Juilliard prepares for its big night; Harry the Hammer helps out.

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Be All That You Can Be – Heatherette, Carlos Miele, United Bamboo, Zang Toi, Yellow Fever, Milly and Atelier Courvoisier

The message was clear in New York — you can play it any way you want…a glamour goddess at Carlos Miele…one of Milly’s retro ladies…a French sophisticate in Zang Toi. You can even run away and join the Heatherette circus.

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Dark Visions and Bright Ideas – Sophia Kokosalaki, Giles, Clements Ribeiro, Gibo, Nicole Farhi and Paul Smith

This isn’t a season for wimps. Hunters and warriors stalked the catwalks at London Fashion Week, which began Saturday and ends Thursday. Dark, tough and often styled to death, many of these shows are getting people talking. But there have also…

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Freeze Frame

LONDON — Last spring, when Simon Jablon was preparing to convert one of his family’s 3,000-square-foot London warehouses into residential property, he stumbled upon thousands of pairs of designer sunglasses — all perfectly preserved…

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Fashion Scoops: First Call … Margiela to Migrate … Spring Break …

FIRST CALL: Not all post-show phone calls come from starlets looking for a cute dress. On Monday, Sen. Hillary Clinton phoned Marc Jacobs’ Robert Duffy to say she wanted to stop by the Marc by Marc Jacobs store on Bleecker…

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Daisy Does It

Daisy Fuentes is the latest celeb to try her hand at fashion, teaming up with Kohl’s to introduce her line of basic sportswear.

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

An Animated Outlook in Chicago

CHICAGO — Midwestern retailers attending the recent summer market at the Chicago Apparel Center came with broader shoulders based on a pickup in business, as they sought out uplifting merchandise in bright, cheery colors.

Susan…

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

AmericasMart Seeks Romantic Appeal

ATLANTA — Despite the winter chill outside, a garden party atmosphere filled AmericasMart’s summer show, as floral prints, a full color spectrum and romantic styling — from ruffles and ribbons to buttons and bows — put buyers…

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Show Me

NEW YORK — The New York Designers & Agents show is just around the corner, and this season, it’s showing

a range of cute and stylish looks. Whether it’s for strolling the streets

or hitting a cocktail party,…

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Novelty Steps Up

NEW YORK — As the economy continues to show signs of a pickup, exhibitors planning to attend The Designers & Agents show here next month are feeling bullish about prospects for fall.

“We think it will be a good year,” said…

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

The Better Battlefield at Macy’s

NEW YORK — The waiting is over and the shopping has begun.

A flurry of new better-priced sportswear lines from some of the industry’s largest vendors, including Tommy Hilfiger Corp., Polo Ralph Lauren Corp. and Jones Apparel Group,…

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

New Lines Look to Make Grade

NEW YORK — Better watch out — the new batch of better-priced sportswear lines has arrived, for the most part, and stores as well as vendors are projecting big things.

“It’s a good thing for the better customer and a…

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

The Posturing

NEW YORK — It doesn’t take much to get tongues wagging in the fashion world.

When some of the industry’s best-known names launched or relaunched better lines in a stampede last year, the rhetoric was as heady as the challenges…

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

A Closer Look – Atil Kutoglu, David Rodriguez, Fusha, Pamela Roland, Gustavo Arango, Jennifer Nicholson, Twinkle by Wenlan and Mary Ping

It rocked, it rolled. It swung from high romance to tough chic à la the Nineties. But one thing’s for sure: Nothing beats the diversity seen here during fashion week.

Veteran Atil Kutoglu offered some fresh additions to his…

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Sigrid Olsen Charges On

Sigrid Olsen’s been busy.

In addition to bringing Mykonos, Greece, to the Crossroads of the World with her new ad campaign, the designer is launching an athleisure line called So Be It for spring and expanding her retail base to 50 stores…

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Memo Pad: One Little Indian … Dark Star …

ONE LITTLE INDIAN: Holdovers from the Dan Brewster regime at Gruner + Jahr USA are an increasingly endangered species. Executive vice president Cindy Spengler wasn’t just let go Tuesday — her spot on the corporate…

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Beauty Beat: Sephora Rolls Out New Initiatives … MAC Renovates at Bendel’s … Fallout From P&G, Wella Deal …

PARIS — Changes are afoot at Sephora.

The LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton-owned perfumery unveiled a Sephora MAC Makeup Studio here and made its debut in print advertising in France this week. It will also launch a private label…

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Zale’s Sparkling Turnaround

NEW YORK — Solid merchandising, marketing and execution at Zale Corp. combined to deliver a strong performance across all brands during the second quarter, which allowed the jewelry retailer to reverse a year-ago loss and raise its financial…

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

A Facelift in Beverly Hills

BEVERLY HILLS, Calif. — No one grows old here, just better.

Neiman Marcus Beverly Hills is celebrating its 25th anniversary Thursday. So, like many aging grande dames in this neighborhood, the 180,000-square-foot concrete monolith on…

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Bebe Names Greg Scott CEO

LOS ANGELES — Confirming months of speculation, Greg Scott has joined Bebe Stores Inc. as chief executive officer. He reports to Manny Mashouf, founder and chairman of the Brisbane, Calif.-based contemporary chain.

Scott resigned his…

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

A&F to Revamp Approach

NEW YORK — Abercrombie & Fitch was able to increase its bottom line, but the ongoing sales drought has Michael Jeffries calling for drastic changes to the retailer’s design, merchandising and marketing strategies.

The firm posted a…

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Cardona,Cerruti Might End Deal

MILAN — In another example of the unrest at Fin.part-controlled Cerruti, sources say designer David Cardona’s contract might not be renewed at the end of this month after showing just one season.

Fin.part declined to comment on the…

clock February 18, 2004WWD Staff

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