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Fashion

Fashion's Game of Musical Chairs Quickens in Paris

The spring shows feature debuts at four major brands, prompting reflection on the pace of designer change.

clock 13hMiles Socha

Retail

Tough Times for Neiman's as Firm Battles 'Challenges'

The luxury chain has been battling the luxury malaise.

clock September 26, 2016David Moin

Retail

Focusing on Spring, Buyers Praise Milan's Creative Energy

The city has not lost its sizzle, once again led by Prada and Gucci.

clock 21hWWD Staff

Sander and Bertelli Split Again

No cover image

Overview

Jil Sander's on-again, off-again role at the company that bears her name is off again. The designer has departed the Prada-owned firm.

From This Issue

“We tend to flip a lot of retail convention on its side.”— Glen Senk, Anthropologie

Beauty Features

A Lesson in Anthropologie

For Anthropologie, more is definitely better.

“We embrace the complexity of our business rather than try to simplify it,” said Glen Senk, president of Anthropologie and executive vice president of its parent company, Urban…

clock November 17, 2004Jean E. Palmieri

“People say our market is overcrowded. Nonsense. There are new stores opening all around us all the time. It’s great, it’s new, it’s exciting, it’s competitive. Bring it on.”— Ron Herman

Fashion Features

Reinventing the Neighborhood Store

Arguably one of the hippest specialty stores in the country, Ron Herman has no ambitions to expand beyond California.

“I think of ourselves as Hollywood’s neighborhood store,” said Ron Herman, owner of the five-unit chain….

clock November 17, 2004Lisa Lockwood

Zac Posen

Fashion Features

The Nominations, Please

The landscape of fashion may continue to change, but one thing will always stay the same — cocktail parties are bound to remain a great opportunity to put a chief executive or an elusive designer on the spot with a tricky subject. Such was the…

clock November 17, 2004WWD Staff

Sharen Jester Turney, Victoria’s Secret Direct

Fashion Features

Behind the Secret

It’s up to the beholder whether Victoria’s Secret is sensual or seamy, titillating or tasteless.

So what’s the view from inside the rapidly growing $4 billion brand?

“We will always walk that fine line,”…

clock November 17, 2004David Moin

Marshal Cohen, The NPD Group

Fashion Features

NPD: Juicing Up the Customer

In order to entice increasingly time-pressed consumers who are spending less on apparel, retailers need to focus on making customers’ lives easier but also more exciting, said Marshal Cohen, chief industry analyst of The NPD Group.

The…

clock November 17, 2004Meredith Derby

Jim Neal, Kurt Salmon Associates

Fashion Features

KSA: Innovation Sparks Top Line

Growing top-line revenues is a “Wall Street imperative,” according to Jim Neal, a principal with the consultancy Kurt Salmon Associates.

In outlining strategies to do that, Neal described current consumer behavior, saying recent…

clock November 17, 2004Lee Bailey

Howard Rubenstein

Fashion Features

Rubenstein’s Rules on Crisis Management

Public relations guru Howard Rubenstein had some succinct advice for chief executive officers who have to report negative information or manage a crisis — “Get the bad news out quickly.’’

“Don’t let the…

clock November 17, 2004Lisa Lockwood

Susan O. Posen

Fashion Features

Roundtable: The Money Tree Grows

There’s a lot of money out there.

In fact, retail and fashion firms in general continue to be well capitalized, while the options and availability for those needing access to capital have never been better.

That’s one…

clock November 17, 2004Ross Tucker and Vicki M. Young

“There’s no question that the store as brand is here to stay. It’slikely to grow and it represents an ongoing challenge for department stores, midtier chains and mass retailers.”— Lee Chaden, Sara Lee

Fashion Features

Brands Are Key to Exclusivity

As chief executive officer of Sara Lee Branded Apparel, Lee Chaden oversees a $6.45 billion business with 55,000 employees, marketing some of the world’s best-known apparel brands including Hanes, Champion, L’eggs, Playtex, Bali and…

clock November 17, 2004David Lipke

Thomas Casey, Deutsche Bank

Financial

Huge Potential for Chinese Consumers

China is emerging as a powerhouse consumer market even as it has evolved into the most important place to source goods.

The world’s most populous nation is undergoing “one of the most dramatic evolutions in the history of…

clock November 17, 2004WWD Staff

Terry Lay, VF

Fashion Features

VF’s Path to Profits in China

The last time he was in China, VF Corp.’s Terry Lay saw something that provided a new perspective on the concept of markdown.

The chairman of VF’s global jeanswear coalition stopped into a Carrefour, where “all women’s…

clock November 17, 2004Scott Malone

“Our people are in high demand due to the rapid market expansion and are being poached as quickly as we train them.”— Bonnie Brooks, Lane Crawford Joyce Group

Fashion Features

Navigating the New China

The word “China” is frequently on the lips of fashion industry executives these days, because that nation is a growing source of supply of goods for the U.S. and European Union markets, and because a new middle class is growing up among…

clock November 17, 2004Scott Malone

“We couldn’t take responsibility for the nuclear problem. But we believe one human right is to have stores full of good merchandise. So we choose that direction.”— Mikhail Kusnirovich, Bosco di Ciliegi

Fashion Features

Bosco’s Russian Renaissance

Mikhail Kusnirovich doesn’t strike the image of a merchant prince. Nor does he fret about it.

“I’m no fashion guy. I’m just a retailer,” he told the audience of U.S. retail and fashion executives.

Then…

clock November 17, 2004David Moin

“There’s a great myth to the fact that large retailers just go around beating up suppliers. Absolutely not true. We actually need our suppliers very, very badly.”— John Hoerner, Tesco

Fashion Features

Tesco’s Food to Fashion Formula

For Tesco Stores, following the money means buying for less to sell goods at lower prices.

That’s the mantra that underlies the mission at Tesco, or what John Hoerner, chief executive, clothing and international sourcing, also refers to…

clock November 17, 2004Vicki M. Young

“The hip-hop culture is 20 years old. It has a great influence on America, and you guys haven’t invested in it too much.”— Russell Simmons, Phat Fashions

Fashion Features

Phat Fashions’ Urban Agenda

Phat Fashions founder Russell Simmons hasn’t really changed his tune.

Simmons regaled the audience with anecdotes, all supporting his mantra that the fashion business has neglected the hip-hop segment.

While his own company, Phat…

clock November 17, 2004Lee Bailey

“[SoHo] has opened our minds.”— Michael Gould, Bloomingdale’s

Fashion Features

Big Impact, Small Package

Bloomingdale’s SoHo is the smallest store in the chain, representing a sliver of total sales and selling space and a slice of the assortment at the 59th Street flagship.

But its impact has been huge, according to Bloomingdale’s…

clock November 17, 2004David Moin

“I think the everyday consumer might love the product, they might think of designers, they might think of companies that they see or brands that they see within a department store, but I’m not sure they know luxury.”— Rose...

Fashion Features

The Burberry Blueprint of Bravo

Rose Marie Bravo, chief executive officer of Burberry plc, took over a dusty traditional British fashion house in 1997 that was generating $460 million in sales and transformed it into a $1.2 billion global luxury brand.

Working 14- to 16-hour…

clock November 17, 2004Lisa Lockwood

“I love demystifying all this.”— Marc Jacobs

Fashion Features

Marc Jacobs: Seizing the Moment

There are certain presumptions one can make about a designer of Marc Jacobs’ stature — that he is famous and influential, that his genius is the result of a singular vision that is unleashed on a runway each season, that he must agonize…

clock November 17, 2004Eric Wilson

“Research reports and analytics have their place, but they’re not a replacement for understanding the story behind all the data.”— Paul Pressler, Gap Inc.

Retail Features

Using Intuition and Instinct to Turn Around Gap

Paul Pressler has a story to tell.

The president and chief executive officer of Gap Inc. is using the lessons he learned during his 15 years at the Walt Disney Co. to return the specialty store chain to solid footing.

“Deep…

clock November 17, 2004Jean E. Palmieri

ABC’s George Stephanopoulos.

Fashion Features

George Stephanopoulos: The Political View

A noted political commentator and former White House adviser might seem out of place at a fashion and retail conference, but given the long shadow cast on the economic and cultural landscape by the recent presidential election, some insight into the…

clock November 17, 2004WWD Staff

“There is the market that controls us every day, unfortunately. But at the same time, we don’t change our focus. Our focus is the product.”-Diego Della Valle

Fashion Features

Driving in New Directions

In a matter of 10 years, what once were considered ingredients necessary to building luxury brands have transformed into a recipe that could damage them.

Only recently could a well-funded designer aspiring to break into the atmosphere of…

clock November 17, 2004Eric Wilson

Fashion Features

Fashion’s Changing World

The lure of dramatic growth in China and Russia; the need to think globally but act locally, and the pressures of the emerging “masstige” market were a few of the recurring themes at the Eighth Annual WWD/DNR CEO Summit.

Held Nov….

clock November 17, 2004WWD Staff

Beauty Features

Beauty Beat: Victoria’s Secret Hit With Lawsuit … Symrise Upgrades Facilities … Firmenich’s Cavallier Honored …

Victoria’s Secret Hit With Lawsuit

NEW YORK — Fragrance Systems International Inc., a U.S. manufacturer of cosmetics containers and dispensers, has filed suit against Victoria’s Secret, accusing the company of…

clock November 17, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Kelly Osbourne Launches Line

Kelly Osbourne is adding clothing designer to her résumé. Osbourne and best friend Ali Barone have launched their line of girl-power loungewear, Stiletto Killers. With angst-filled phrases such as “I’m not with stupid…

clock November 17, 2004WWD Staff

Jennifer Noonan, owner of maternity boutique Naissance on Melrose, in her Los Angeles store.

Financial

Oh, Baby: Hollywood Boosts Maternity Apparel

The $1.55 billion maternity apparel market is riding a Hollywood baby boom and is on track for 10 percent growth this year.

clock November 17, 2004Michelle Tyree

Mischa Barton and boyfriend Brandon Davis with Tinker Bell poster.

Retail Features

Move Over, Peter, Disney to Market Tink

LOS ANGELES — Tinker Bell, more than a plucky pixie or sidekick to Peter Pan, is finally getting respect as a girl-power pioneer in a product and art collaboration between Walt Disney Co. and a trio of influential tastemakers.

Disney…

clock November 17, 2004WWD Staff

Triple Threat: Annette and Oscar de la Renta with Eliza Reed Bolen and Coco Brandolini

Fashion Features

Oscar Night

NEW YORK — A longtime ladies man, Oscar de la Renta reeled them all in Monday night at the opening party for his new Madison Avenue boutique.

Oscar fan Sarah Jessica Parker popped in to say hello along with her television paramour,…

clock November 17, 2004WWD Staff

Fashion Features

Burberry Net Leaps 25% in Half, Share Buyback Planned

Burberry reported a 25 percent surge in first-half profits to 52.3 million pounds, or $67.7 million, and announced a share buyback plan.

clock November 17, 2004Samantha Conti

Third-quarter operating income in the Saks Fifth Avenue Enterprises unit of Saks Inc. dropped 5.2 percent to $25.9 million.

Financial

Another Saks Loss Counters Big-Name Gains

Major retailers filed a wave of third-quarter earnings reports and their mixed results led investors to pull back on retail stocks.

clock November 17, 2004WWD Staff

Financial

Wholesale Prices Gain 0.1%

WASHINGTON — Wholesale prices for U.S.-produced women’s and girls’ apparel rose 0.1 percent in October, which economists attributed to higher energy costs.

In the overall economy, producer prices went up 1.7 percent for all…

clock November 17, 2004Kristi Ellis

Financial

Ross Readies China Expansion

NEW YORK — Wilbur L. Ross, the chairman of International Textile Group, is getting ready to make a major move into China, he revealed to a group of importer executives on Tuesday.

It’s part of a major expansion drive for the $800…

clock November 17, 2004Scott Malone

Financial

Calvin Klein Boosts PVH

NEW YORK — Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. on Tuesday posted a 57.1 percent jump in income in the third quarter, aided in part by a 40 percent increase in operating earnings in the Calvin Klein licensing business.

For the three months ended…

clock November 17, 2004Vicki M. Young

A look from La Blanca by Rod Beattie made by Apparel Ventures, which has just acquired Waterfront Design Group.

Fashion Features

Apparel Ventures Adds to Portfolio

LOS ANGELES — Apparel Ventures Inc., one of the largest independent swimwear companies, has acquired Waterfront Design Group LLC, a young contemporary-junior swimwear firm that has the license for junior brand Rampage swimwear.

AVI, which…

clock November 17, 2004Marcy Medina

With its Simply Eight hangtag, Chaus appeals to Baby Boomers with full closets by showing them options for assembling fresh wardrobes.

Fashion Features

Sounding a Wise, Youthful Appeal

NEW YORK — Apparel marketers will have to perform a balancing act to allure Baby Boomers, a generation bringing a youthful mentality to the second half of their lives even as they grow into an age-accepting attitude.

Too, the generation…

clock November 17, 2004Valerie Seckler

Fashion Features

U.S., EU Settle on Cargo Security

The U.S. and EU settled a cargo security dispute, setting security standards for all European ports and agreeing to share more freight information.

clock November 17, 2004Joanna Ramey

Textiles

Vietnam Quota Call

A coalition of apparel and textile groups has made a formal request with the Bush administration to go after surging imports from Vietnam.

clock November 17, 2004Kristi Ellis

WWD Image

Fashion Features

Brooke Shields: Still in Fashion

Brooke Shields could arguably be called the look of a generation, but there’s no doubt she remains the face of Jones New York.

clock November 17, 2004Evan Clark

Ines Rivero

Fashion Features

Suzy

A horse of a wedding in Boca Grande…Pigging out with George Clooney…The Schiffer stork.

clock November 17, 2004Aileen Mehle

Fashion Features

In Brief: Giannaccari Exits Bottega … Coach Fire … A & F Gets Diverse …

GIANNACCARI EXITS BOTTEGA: Gucci Group has lost another executive: company veteran Francesco Giannaccari. Sources said Giannaccari, chief financial officer of Bottega Veneta and one of the driving forces behind the brand, stepped down this…

clock November 17, 2004WWD Staff

Financial

Dress Barn Said to Buy Maurices

NEW YORK — The Dress Barn Inc. is expected to announce today that it has inked a deal to purchase specialty chain Maurices Inc. for about $325 million.

Sources familiar with the transaction said the deal is likely to close sometime…

clock November 17, 2004Vicki M. Young

Fashion Features

Corrections

Sir Paul Smith has had a store in Manhattan since 1987. This was incorrect in Oct. 29’s paper.

The jeweled cuff bracelets shown on Monday, were by Nine West.

clock November 17, 2004WWD Staff

Financial

Majority Stake of Fortunoff Sold to Private Equity Firms

Fortunoff has sold a majority stake to private equity firms Trimaran Capital Partners and K Group. The new backers will support growth plans.

clock November 17, 2004Emily Holt

WWD Image

Fashion Features

Sander and Bertelli Split Again

Jil Sander’s on-again, off-again role at the company that bears her name is off again. The designer has departed the Prada-owned firm.

clock November 17, 2004Amanda Kaiser

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